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Author Topic: Help with Magic Lamp- Fail LED  (Read 17135 times)
Queentoad
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« on: July 26, 2011, 06:12:24 AM »

I bought a Williams Magic Lamp slot Saturday night. After playing it for about 30 mins I hit a jackpot and then it messed up. There were not enough coins in the hopper at that time to payout. Upon trying a coin got jammed, which I was able to free but then it briefly flashed an error code of P6?or ps6? failure and lost power to the upper display along with the door displays etc. the upper screen comes on for a minute with dotmation display but will not boot completely. The screen just turns black. There seems to be no power to the buttons, the reels do not spin but the hopper runs continuously every time it's powered on. All LED lights are on including the fail lights on both the I/O and CPU. This is my 1st machine and so far is not a good experience. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
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StatFreak
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« Reply #1 on: July 26, 2011, 07:21:09 AM »

NLG Welcome Queentoad wave

Based on the fact that all of the IO board LEDs are on, the first thing I would try is to reseat the IO card and the CPU board. Those are the two boards in the cage under the reel shelf. WITH THE POWER OFF, open the cage, partially pull out each board, and then carefully but firmly push each back into place. Close the cage door and turn the machine on.

You might also want to pull the boards out completely and inspect the back connectors for bent pins, but I'd try a simple reseat first. If you do this, be sure to put each board back in the right place.

I couldn't find any error code close to "P6" or "PS6" Scratch Head


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Queentoad
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« Reply #2 on: July 26, 2011, 07:50:19 AM »

Thanks for the reply. I tried your suggestions but nothing changed. Examined both boards and they also look good. Anything else I can try?
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dale
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« Reply #3 on: July 26, 2011, 11:22:15 AM »

One of mine WMS 40X did the same thing  ( hopper running constantly, no lights). The IO board has a large square chip in it that went bad. I just replaced the board and the machine came right back up.
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StatFreak
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« Reply #4 on: July 26, 2011, 11:58:26 AM »

Thanks Dale. I agree. If reseating the boards didn't work, then one or both of them is probably bad. Again, all of your power LEDs are on, right? They're the ones in a row on the right side of the board.


<ADD>
Before you run out and buy a replacement board (or two – if the CPU board also needs replacing), I'm hoping one of our members with more DOT expertise will chime in. There may be some other steps you can take first.

There is an single digit 8-segment LED display on the CPU board – that's the bottom one. It might be displaying a number that would help with the diagnosis. The thing is, I've never figured out how to read the damned thing while the board is in a machine. I think they figured that the board would be pulled and in a test unit if someone needed to see that information.

Also, if you do end up replacing the IO board, there are soldered jumpers on the lower (front) left part of the board that designate the jurisdiction. This much match the software on the game chips or the machine will throw up a jurisdiction error and won't play. The most common is to have no jumpers at all. That's Las Vegas. Any new board you buy should have the same jumper settings, or you should change them to match your old board before you fire it up.

You'll almost certainly need a clear/denom chip. They come in specific denominations, so get the one that matches you machine's denomination.

« Last Edit: July 26, 2011, 12:12:36 PM by StatFreak » Logged

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tollguy316
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« Reply #5 on: July 26, 2011, 12:22:31 PM »

I concur with Dale and Stat as I too had the same problem of the hopper running constantly.    My problem was also the square chp on the I/O board.......New I/O board !!!!   Good luck, Bill
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dale
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« Reply #6 on: July 26, 2011, 01:37:42 PM »

The display did not work in mine. If you happen to get an IO  board with the same soldered jurisdictions  you won't need a clear.  This was my experience.
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Queentoad
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« Reply #7 on: July 26, 2011, 05:10:56 PM »

Thanks for the help from everyone. I was afraid it would be a problem with one of the boards. @ Stat ...yes,  all 5 of the lights are lit on the right side plus the fail light on the left. The CPU board is lit also but it's almost impossible to tell what the code is, kind of looks like an 8. Where would be the best place to begin checking for a new I O board and how can I make sure it's the correct one for my machine? Is there a part number or something I should match it to? Thanks again to all who has replied, you're the best!!
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« Reply #8 on: July 26, 2011, 11:55:31 PM »

Post a WTB in the classifieds. We have several good vendors and one of them should be able to get you set up.

You might start with Jim at Blueridge slots. You can send him a PM (personal message).
« Last Edit: July 27, 2011, 12:10:12 AM by StatFreak » Logged

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Queentoad
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« Reply #9 on: December 04, 2011, 04:16:55 AM »

I put in a new io board and the hopper stopped running all the time but I still have the fail light on and no upper display and no lights on door. Anyone have any ideas I can try next??
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dale
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« Reply #10 on: December 04, 2011, 03:42:47 PM »

You may also need an upper power supply.
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Queentoad
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« Reply #11 on: December 04, 2011, 04:39:35 PM »

I checked the power supply and it's putting out the right amount of power. The upper display comes on at start up and says Williams like its booting up but then his blank. And I have no lights on the door buttons or credit meter as well as the other like coin in or paid out meters. What could I try next?
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dale
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« Reply #12 on: December 04, 2011, 08:01:12 PM »

All IO LED lights on: Bad or loose CPU or IO board. Are you sure that the boards are in securely?

The machine has 2 power supplies. They are both different, one in the dot box ( upper) and one in the box ( lower) by the hopper. Could be a partial power failure.

When my IO board freaked out I ruined a upper power supply also.

You really have to make sure that the boards are in securely as there will be a little tweak when they go in. Hate to keep on the boards and power supplies but they are very likely problems with the issues you describe.

There are guys a lot smarter then me on this board maybe they can help better. I just had a problem with another IO board and it can really do odd things to a machine, and I am talking top to bottom. If you had some change parts you could really narrow it down by elimination.
 

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paul
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« Reply #13 on: December 05, 2011, 01:50:40 AM »

did you clear machine
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Queentoad
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« Reply #14 on: December 05, 2011, 01:28:19 PM »

I didn't clear the machine cause I'm not sure on how to do that. I was wondering though if I could swap the chips from my old io board and put them into the new io board? Would that do anything? If it would how would you get the chips out? I am very thankful for all the help you guys are giving me!! Also my old io board had no jumpers in it so I took the jumper off the new board to match.
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dale
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« Reply #15 on: December 05, 2011, 01:41:44 PM »

If you took the jumper off I am sure you have to clear. You can go from the same jurisdiction on different IO boards but I think you have to clear it when you change it. Funny though, it should still come up and tell you that you need a CLR, and you are not getting anything on your display.
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Queentoad
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« Reply #16 on: December 05, 2011, 01:42:33 PM »

Ya I'm not getting any display
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dale
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« Reply #17 on: December 05, 2011, 01:47:04 PM »

Did you do the simple things like check your display and check the harness that goes from it?

Does it take coins or play at all?

I am still stuck on whether your boards are good and secure and a problem with the lower Power supply. These are almost always the causes of problems and some are very strange .
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Queentoad
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« Reply #18 on: December 05, 2011, 01:50:12 PM »

No. Nothing on the door works or lights up other than the bottom display lights fo the bottom glass. The only thing the new io board did was make the hopper stop running all the time.
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paul
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« Reply #19 on: December 05, 2011, 01:55:48 PM »

the bottom board is the MPU board the jumper must be on that the jumper is on 5&7 for 4 meg sound and on 7&7 for 8 meg      Paul
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Queentoad
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« Reply #20 on: December 05, 2011, 02:01:17 PM »

I never touched the mpu board. There were no jumpers on my old io board on the lower left conor by the dip switches. So that is what I matched.
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dale
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« Reply #21 on: December 05, 2011, 02:10:55 PM »

I thought we we are talking jurisdiction and that is on your IO board. Even if your P7 is different your display will tell you. On your IO board there are either no soldered jumpers or soldered jumpers. I believe even if those are wrong your display will tell you. The thing you need to do is get your display to work. You need to look at what would make that problem. You need to get the display working to get the information you need.

Bad display
Bad harness
 Bad boards IO or CPU
Bad lower PS

Robert, Kevin, Bill, Dave, Clay HELP! These guys are a lot smarter then me.
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Queentoad
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« Reply #22 on: December 05, 2011, 02:24:38 PM »

I agree. I'm so sorry to be bugging everyone but I really do Appreciate all the help.
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Queentoad
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« Reply #23 on: December 05, 2011, 02:26:30 PM »

I don't think it's the display cause when I power it up the top display says Williams gaming but then after about 45 sec it goes blank.
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dale
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« Reply #24 on: December 05, 2011, 02:59:50 PM »

Nothing to be sorry about. Lets get this part straight. Is your DOTMATION Blank or your DISPLAY BLANK (Credit win Bet) ? We may be confusing each other.

This is straight from the manual.

DOTMATION is blank: Bad cable, Bad upper power supply, Bad eprom XU10, Bad +-12 Lower power supply, serial port cable, bad DOTMATION display.

DISPLAY ( Credit, Win, Bet) is blank: Wire harness, bad display, bad IO board, bad CPU board,  Power supply, certain chips.

How many Bongs at start up are you getting?
« Last Edit: December 05, 2011, 03:08:36 PM by dale » Logged
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