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Author Topic: optic problems  (Read 4852 times)
PLUNGER BOY
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« on: August 07, 2011, 11:32:13 PM »

  I  am having problems with a s2000 machine.  It would go into a general reel tilt the same as if you opened the door during a spin   The belly door and coin box have been jumped out or bypassed   . On the I/O test for the main door the front display should flash from 1 to 0 if optics are OK  when the door is open it is at 0 when the door is closed it is at 1 but does not alternate between 1 and 0 is this a optic or board problem thanks
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kforeman
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« Reply #1 on: August 08, 2011, 12:23:04 AM »

  I  am having problems with a s2000 machine.  It would go into a general reel tilt the same as if you opened the door during a spin   The belly door and coin box have been jumped out or bypassed   . On the I/O test for the main door the front display should flash from 1 to 0 if optics are OK  when the door is open it is at 0 when the door is closed it is at 1 but does not alternate between 1 and 0 is this a optic or board problem thanks

could be either i suppose.  i would eliminate the easy one first; jump your door optics and see if it clears it!
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Foster
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« Reply #2 on: August 08, 2011, 04:15:39 AM »

I suspect you are causing a short to ground in the BV switch wiring or in the optics wiring.

If you have removed the BV sub chassis and re-installed it for any reason you could have easily pinched the BV switch wires.

Also to help the BV and machine reset properly after you remove and re-install the cash can the machine likes to see the BV door open (while can is out) and closed after the cash can is installed.
Belly door switch is not needed and can easily bypassed.
« Last Edit: August 08, 2011, 04:29:38 AM by Foster » Logged

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PLUNGER BOY
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« Reply #3 on: August 08, 2011, 11:05:51 AM »

IF i unplug the connector off the mother board  and test the wires from the optics to the chassis for continuity it should NOT read closed ?  that would show a ground to  a bare wire
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Jim
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« Reply #4 on: August 08, 2011, 11:22:22 AM »

did the game ever operate?  sounds as if it did.  giving the general tilt code.  usually that indicates the door open during a spin.  that usually indicates mis alignment of the door optics. try your I/O test and move the door latch up and wiggle it to see if you can see the alternating 0 to 1.  if you can then the optics need re-alignment.  I have come across several machines where this has occured. I ended up shimming the black optic holder to get the proper alignment. After shimming that the problem never came back.

Jim
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PLUNGER BOY
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« Reply #5 on: August 08, 2011, 11:31:14 AM »

did the game ever operate?  sounds as if it did.  giving the general tilt code.  usually that indicates the door open during a spin.  that usually indicates mis alignment of the door optics. try your I/O test and move the door latch up and wiggle it to see if you can see the alternating 0 to 1.  if you can then the optics need re-alignment.  I have come across several machines where this has occured. I ended up shimming the black optic holder to get the proper alignment. After shimming that the problem never came back.

Jim
As  was stated in my first post.  during the I/O  test it shows open as 0 and closed door as 1 . BUT the 1 and 0 do not flash back and forth in this test with door closed as all other machines do in this test    just steady 1 or steady 0.      ***Note the game has been running for over 1 yr  with no problems 
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stayouttadabunker
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« Reply #6 on: August 08, 2011, 11:36:41 AM »

Sounds like a partially broken ground wire at either the emitter or receiver optic wires...?
Have you had a chance to swap known good optics into this cabinet?
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PLUNGER BOY
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« Reply #7 on: August 08, 2011, 11:40:58 AM »

Sounds like a partially broken ground wire at either the emitter or receiver optic wires...?
Have you had a chance to swap known good optics into this cabinet?
no   If i bypass the optics does it matter ?
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stayouttadabunker
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« Reply #8 on: August 08, 2011, 11:45:09 AM »

no...you won't be using the optic anymore - you'll be "hard-wiring" the door sensors now.

If you decide to go that way - use a 3-position plunger type of cherry switch.
That way you can "open" the door by just pulling/extending the plunger -
instead of undoing any wiring connectors.
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PLUNGER BOY
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« Reply #9 on: August 08, 2011, 11:50:52 AM »

no...you won't be using the optic anymore - you'll be "hard-wiring" the door sensors now.

If you decide to go that way - use a 3-position plunger type of cherry switch.
That way you can "open" the door by just pulling/extending the plunger -
instead of undoing any wiring connectors.
BUNKER you posted a bypass along time ago i found in the search box.  FOSTER also posted a way to bypass the optics  is there a way to splice the wires closer to the connection on the motherboard and eliminate any chance of a bad wire
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stayouttadabunker
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« Reply #10 on: August 08, 2011, 11:53:48 AM »

I'd do it exactly the way foster figured it out...
it was easier than the way I did it.

I hate optics on doors anyways...the cool thing is:
I can very easily fool the MPU into thinking the door is in the "open" state by pulling on the plunger
and see how things operate with the door physically open.

As far as your question of "splicing" the wiring closer to the motherboard...you can ,
but I don't know which wires are for the optics near the the backplane board.
I'd have to look it up in the wiring schematics or hand trace the wiring.

It may just be a bad receptor pin not fully grasping a male pin in the connector housing.
That's a bit harder to determine.
I'd 1st try the "bad" optics in a known good cabinet to see if that's the problem...
« Last Edit: August 08, 2011, 11:58:52 AM by stayouttadabunker » Logged
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« Reply #11 on: August 08, 2011, 09:12:59 PM »

...
I hate optics on doors anyways...the cool thing is:
I can very easily fool the MPU into thinking the door is in the "open" state by pulling on the plunger
and see how things operate with the door physically open.
...


Google
               Did you mean:  in the "closed" state


Tongue Out
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« Reply #12 on: August 08, 2011, 09:17:20 PM »

Something else to consider that nobody has brought up yet is that it's possible that the green battery on the MPU board has leaked corrosion onto the MPU board and has partially eaten through the traces on the board.  The traces directly below the battery (which tend to get damaged) are for the door circuits, and will give you random door open messages (and can cause a General Reel Tilt if the machine sees the door as "open" in the middle of a spin).

With the power OFF, remove the MPU board (watch your fingers!) and check for obvious signs of battery acid/corrosion near the green battery.
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kforeman
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« Reply #13 on: August 08, 2011, 10:31:05 PM »

BUNKER you posted a bypass along time ago i found in the search box.  FOSTER also posted a way to bypass the optics  is there a way to splice the wires closer to the connection on the motherboard and eliminate any chance of a bad wire

according to my documentation the main door optics plug into J11 on the motherboard at pins 1 & 2.  lightning bolt  hope it helps!  yes
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stayouttadabunker
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« Reply #14 on: August 08, 2011, 11:29:54 PM »

...
I hate optics on doors anyways...the cool thing is:
I can very easily fool the MPU into thinking the door is in the "open" state by pulling on the plunger
and see how things operate with the door physically open.
...


Google
               Did you mean:  in the "closed" state


Tongue Out


lol    Yes...I did mean a "Closed State"... Tongue Out Thanks for the correction Stat!  Clap applause
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