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Author Topic: IGT PE+ Video poker White HOT Aces HELP!!!  (Read 57085 times)
Buzz
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« Reply #25 on: August 17, 2011, 09:33:14 PM »

I'm in favor of repairing the broken leg on the cap prom ( U 43 ) and try to clear the "Call Attendant" error before ordering a new MPU board !!!!!!!!!!!  This old board looks like crap but we don't know for sure it's BAD.

http://cgi.ebay.com/IGT-PE-PLUS-POKER-SLOT-MPU-CPU-BOARDS-PROGRAMS-/130529820160?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1e642efe00

I would be hard pressed to give $75 for a PE+ MPU unless I knew for sure I had to have it !!
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« Reply #26 on: August 17, 2011, 11:30:43 PM »

The guy selling that just so happens to be from my town so i am msging him to see what i can work out. To be honest i would much rather just buy the whole MPU board then mess around with all the chips. I am not so naive to think this will fix everything but I am hopeful it will get me there faster. I will keep you guys updated on what he says. Also i will need to get a monitor cap kit, might as well get it all at once. I msgs a guy on here about it, but he didn't reply so what one should i get? whats an avg price?
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Buzz
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« Reply #27 on: August 18, 2011, 12:00:37 AM »

http://randyfromm.com/amusements/yellowpages/zanen/         Try these people  $6.95 + shipping

The guy selling that just so happens to be from my town so i am msging him to see what i can work out. To be honest i would much rather just buy the whole MPU board then mess around with all the chips. I am not so naive to think this will fix everything but I am hopeful it will get me there faster. I will keep you guys updated on what he says. Also i will need to get a monitor cap kit, might as well get it all at once. I msgs a guy on here about it, but he didn't reply so what one should i get? whats an avg price?
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« Reply #28 on: August 18, 2011, 12:33:06 AM »

What size and stuff do i need?
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Buzz
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« Reply #29 on: August 18, 2011, 01:12:20 AM »

Pull the monitor out and look on the chassis.  I'm pretty sure it's a model 1492.  Zanen's have a toll free number, give them a call and tell them what you have.  I think you have a 13' tube but I'm not sure.  Maybe someone can tell us for sure !!  Help Help
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jay
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« Reply #30 on: August 18, 2011, 01:27:31 AM »

Lets start at the beginning.

There are two types of boards for a PE+

The regular board and a Superboard.

All of the regular games work in the superboard but not the other way around.

The game will consist of a Game Chip, Program Chip if it is a basic game, but will also include a data chip if it is a superboard only game.
The next chip is called a Caprom - this is a small (and ancient) chip that controls the graphics. If you have the wrong one the cards and such show up in the wrong colors.
They will have a label on them like 740 if it is a standard game and a X740 if it is for a supergame. THe X denotes a superboard Caprom Chip.
There are then 4 other graphics chips with names like MX0 MXG etc.

The primary advantage of the Superboard is that there is a couple of Multi-game chip sets that give you 5 games with an upfront menu. THese can't be run on the older boards.
You can also occasionally find one of the rare "daughter boards" that clip onto the super board and you can then use ANY 5 games that use the same Caprom.

If you switch from white hot aces to most any other card game the cards all line up well. I wouldn't sweat the burn in right now.

You could buy Joker Poker or Bonus poker and they would do just fine.
Here is a link to the IGT game bible where we have a listing of the avalabe games.
You can also go to Ricks Faq Files (button on the middle of the page) followed by choosing the IGT Game bible link.
http://www.newlifegames.net/igtbible/IGT%20Poker/Game%20Library%20-%20PE-Plus.htm

I will again suggest to contact Leemans1960 (April) and a link to her number / auctions are on the page.
SHe has lots of kits available not just what she has listed on ebay and may have boards available also.
Many of the other dealers may have kits available too - check out their links.
If you mention NLG they are often very generous with their prices.

You do not normally need to change your glass as the pay table is displayed on the screen but as you will see from the game bible some glass is more attractive than others.

The red is left over "gaming" tape residue. This is tape that is specifically made to leave evidence of tampering.
If you have ever used "tuck" tape for sealing plastic sheets over insulation it leaves the same residue.
If just doesn't say "Gaming Control" on the outside..... lol.

Your board is speculatively fine but as you bought a machine that isn't currently live I personally would be taking the fast track to get the machine up and then worry about trouble shooting the other one once you know that all of the other bits are working.
There is never any harm in having spare parts around. Personally I have 5 boards for mine, extra switches, lamps etc.

Your going to have a blast with your new toy,






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« Reply #31 on: August 18, 2011, 04:05:15 AM »

Wow Thanks Jay i learned alot from that post Cheesy I will contact Leemans1960 and ask her a few questions and i Believe you are right, the fast track is always the best. I want that baby running! lol Thanks again for that post must have taken you a while to type out lol Great Information.
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Mouse
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« Reply #32 on: August 18, 2011, 05:32:52 PM »

Good news. I got the CPU board for $50, I low balled him and he accepted! mind you its $10 shipping but still down from $75, I thought that was pretty nice of him  Hail I am happy!   cheese

http://www.ebay.com/itm/130529820160?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
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knagl
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« Reply #33 on: August 18, 2011, 08:22:07 PM »

Good deal.  Let us know how it goes when you put it in!

(Make sure that you always have the power OFF when you insert or remove the MPU board, or you'll let the magic smoke out  Burning Resistor)
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« Reply #34 on: August 18, 2011, 09:05:35 PM »

Thanks for that's little reminder, To be honest i had not even thought about that. I asked my husband and he told me that he had already done that.  Duh!   frying pan   hahaha but now we know! Thank you
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« Reply #35 on: August 19, 2011, 04:15:06 AM »

Until you have enough experience to know what can be done with the power on, I recommend turning off the power anytime you're going to connect or disconnect something, even a light bulb. It's always better to be safe than sorry.

It's usually okay to pull and replace the hopper with the power on, as long as it's not engaged, but even that can generate a tilt code.
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« Reply #36 on: August 19, 2011, 02:47:29 PM »

Tilt Code??? i hope thats not what it sounds like because when we brough it home we laid it on its back :S
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knagl
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« Reply #37 on: August 19, 2011, 05:28:41 PM »

Tilt Code??? i hope thats not what it sounds like because when we brough it home we laid it on its back :S


Grin

That's cute.  No, save for any monitor damage that could happen from transporting the machine, there's nothing wrong with tilting a machine on to its back to transport it.

The term "tilt code" refers to an error code or message on the machine, which could range from a software error to an empty hopper or some other mechanical or electronic failure.  The term "tilt" is primarily a pinball term and there refers to physically moving the machine too much.  A "tilt" on a slot machine is an error code which can be caused by many things, but not by moving the machine from one location to another.  propeller
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« Reply #38 on: August 19, 2011, 06:17:17 PM »

A "tilt" on a slot machine is an error code which can be caused by many things, but not by moving the machine from one location to another.  propeller

Eh, before someone jumps on me for saying that, of course some damage could occur during transport and then a tilt (error) code would result from that, but to be completely clear, there are not any sensors inside the machine that detect if a machine has been put on its side or back like a pinball machine has.  (...and a pinball machine can be moved, too -- a tilt (shaking the machine too much) generally just disqualifies the ball in play during a game.)
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« Reply #39 on: August 19, 2011, 07:01:04 PM »

 Embarrassed face in palm oh lol Well im glad i dont have to worry about that. So im getting that new board i hope next week. is there any other parts i should order?
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Mouse
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« Reply #40 on: August 23, 2011, 08:18:39 PM »

Lord I am as mad as a wet hen. My CPU board was sappose to be here today, I msg's the guy (off eBay) if there was a shipping number because he had not marked it as shipped yet. I look up the number he gives me and its not in the usps system yet. and i go back to ebay and now he has it marked as shipped. if he just shipped it now im going to be SOOO mad!
Negative review here i come!

Sorry for the ranting i just wish i could go into a store and buy the part!
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« Reply #41 on: August 23, 2011, 08:30:20 PM »

That's what gets me PISSED OFF. If it's something you're not in a hurry for it comes quick,
if you need it they piss around shipping it.
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Mouse
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« Reply #42 on: August 23, 2011, 09:58:22 PM »

hahahaha true that! I have an ebay company and i ALWAYS ship within 2days. We just went on a trip to Lousiana and i took some packages with me waiting on payment. lol
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Mouse
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« Reply #43 on: August 27, 2011, 04:05:40 PM »

We get the new part... its like Christmas!! i was so excited!!! so i get it all rigged up and I'm so happy... and it does nothing... like NOTHING the light on top doesn't flash the screen just lights up but is still black Sad what a let down. the cpu i ordered looks great. Please help, I'm so discouraged   Sad

I used the reset key and held it, pressed what i think is the test button or whatever and open and closed the door a bunch.. nothing. doesn't do a thing... sigh Sad
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Mouse
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« Reply #44 on: August 28, 2011, 03:45:59 AM »

Hey everyone,
      Sorry to bother everyone AGAIN but i ordered a new CPU board for my IGT PE video poker machine. Installed it and The screen lights up but it stays black with no sounds. I tried the restart key. the test button (or whatever its called lol) and the open and close door trick... nothing at all  Scratch Head

It seems pretty easy to change the CPU board so i dont think i screwed that up  frying pan Anyway. can someone please help me I am so frustrated   hissy fit bawling hissy fit

 Help
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Yoeddy1
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« Reply #45 on: August 28, 2011, 02:11:21 PM »

Hi Mouse,

If you put your old board back it, you get the any data, wavy lines on the screen, sounds, etc?  Or is it blank with no sounds as well?  Did this new board come with chips or did you transfer chips from your old board to this new board?  Check that the chips are seated correctly.  Sorry you're having trouble...we'll get you fixed.

Jason
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Mouse
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« Reply #46 on: August 28, 2011, 04:33:55 PM »

Thank You! Cheesy
   The old board had no sound and black screen. also it looked in rough shape. some of the guys on here said it looked like it was under water :S lol The new board came with all the chips in it and they all look correct. I don't even know where to start.
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« Reply #47 on: August 28, 2011, 04:52:33 PM »

I have a Game King and am not as familiar with the guts of a PE, although I would assume it's similar.  My next thought would be something possibly with the mother board that your MPU plugs into.  I used to have an old CEI poker machine that went up in smoke due to my own fault, but the guys out here helped me get it fixed.  My problem was board level problem that ended up needing some resistors replaced, but since you've swapped MPU's, no need to pursue that.  Did you check all of the boards and monitor fuses as well to make sure nothing has blown?  I would also check all of your wire plugs and pin connectors to make sure there isn't any corrosion, bent pins, etc.

With the MPU out, you might snap some interior photos of the inside of the machine so that we can take a closer look.

Thanks,
Jason
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StatFreak
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« Reply #48 on: August 28, 2011, 04:59:12 PM »

Mouse, forget my pm. I thought you had swapped the old chips into the new board.


Stat garfield
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jay
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« Reply #49 on: August 28, 2011, 09:13:38 PM »

This is indeed strange behavior........

I was not too concerned about your old board other than it had a chip with a broken pin, which may suggest other damage on the board is possible.
I have broken chip legs before (its a newbe thing to do) but whenever I have done this I have either replaced or repaired the chip.
So we wanted to put that board to the side and deal with it later.

One thing to try is to take your new board and use an eraser (the white ones work best) on the card edge that will slide into your machine.
Casino smoke and such can cause build up and given that these machines are now 20+ years old mild tarnishing can cause contact problems.

I have taken some old slant top trays whos wings prohibit proper insertion into the upright PE+ and ground off the extended wings and have found that on occassion these hacked trays have caused me minor insertion problems and the behavior is just like you described. When I open the door and exercise some muscle on my insertion the problem goes away and contact is made. I am not suggesting you have such a modified tray but the sympthoms are similar.

Here is a simple test - take the MPU board out, close the door and turn on the machine ??? is the behavior the same ---- if so I would say proper contact or something similar is the cause here.

On a normal board tray.... it still has has wings, perhaps bend them back slightly to make sure the board is inserting well.
Here is a stick diagram of what I mean
        
       [knob]
  -----------------------   <----- over hanging wings
     |            |
     |_______|
      
       [knob]
  \-------------------/
     |            |
     |_______|

Of course you don't want to be this dramatic of a bend but its the best I can do with ascii character diagrams.  yes

The other thing to look at is the tray that the board is in. Does it have a transformer in it the same as your last tray ? and is it connected ??












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