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Author Topic: Red White & Blue won't take quarters.  (Read 24385 times)
poppo
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« Reply #25 on: October 09, 2011, 09:23:06 PM »

MrMrsSlots  until you round up the quarter parts your going to need, try putting a half dollar in the CC for a sample coin and see if the machine will play with them.  If you do have a dollar shim in the optics, it's going to not count every coin dropped in, but at least you will be able to play the machine some.


The only problem is with no coins in the hopper he might error out on a payout  (no idea how it's currently set up). I was going to suggest using the coin optics test button but then thought about getting hopper empty errors. I suppose we need to know what SP chip he has in there.
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« Reply #26 on: October 09, 2011, 09:39:07 PM »

Another thing we both forgot is a quarter coin head.  He can modify the one he already has by grinding the ears on the back plate far enough so that two quarter can't be dropped in side by side. 

Mark I've also been known to make a optic coin shim out of a old wiring loom that's been cut out of a machine ( small gas hose will also work ) Just so it's fat enough that it stays in place after the optic has been put back together. ( Only you and your hair dresser will know for sure )
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« Reply #27 on: October 09, 2011, 10:48:17 PM »

Can I get my hands on Silver dollar sized slugs/tokens?  And can I convert it to a quarter machine?

Yes on both. It would probably easier and cheaper to convert it to quarters.
...

I don't entirely agree. It would certainly be easier to just buy the right sized tokens and use them. Some reasons to convert would be:

1. You would prefer to use quarters or quarter sized tokens.
2. Quarters have always been the most popular denomination in the home slot market, so it would help with resale.
3. Because of #2, quarter hardware is getting harder to find all the time. If you intend on ever converting the machine, the sooner you buy the hardware, the better.


As to the conversion being cheaper than buying dollar (or whatever) tokens, that depends on how you look at it. If you end up buying the hardware and 1000 quarter sized tokens, it might cost more than 400 dollar sized tokens. If you use real quarters, it will cost much more in the short term but the quarters will always retain their value and you could choose not to consider them an expense.

However, if you use real quarters and either have children or less than honest friends, you will lose money over time as some of the quarters will "accidentally" fall into your kids' and friends' pockets while they are playing.
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« Reply #28 on: October 09, 2011, 10:50:31 PM »

I suggest taking the coin out of the comparitor and using it to check both the coin head and the hopper.

The comparitor snaps out, as poppo suggested. Just be careful because the plastic holders that it snaps into can become brittle with age. Remove the sample coin. If it's a dollar token or Ike, try dropping it through the coin head on the door to see if it will fit.

Then place it in the hopper to see if it seems set up for coins that size. What I mean is that the hopper has an inner shelf wheel (the smaller wheel that creates the ledge that the coins ride on) and an outer pin wheel (with the pins that push the coins along as the entire wheel assy. rotates.) Place the coin on the shelf wheel near the 12 o'clock position between two pins. Then take a picture and post it.

The 12 o'clock position of the hopper wheel plates will be behind that deflector plate (with the $1 written on it), so that might make this a little more difficult to do. It probably IS a dollar hopper, but it's possible that components were swapped out. I wouldn't blindly trust the "$1" written in magic marker.
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« Reply #29 on: October 09, 2011, 10:56:10 PM »

I was not counting real quarters as an expense. But you have some valid points.

But another conideration is if he want it to be a $.025 machine, then he still needs to convert the parts unless he uses dollar sized tokens as quarters. either that or makes the machine a $1 machine. I suppose it all depends on how 'real' he want it to be.
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MrMrsSlots
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« Reply #30 on: October 09, 2011, 11:03:01 PM »

I found my stash of Ike dollar coins.  I inserted one in the coin comparator (hopefully correctly), and attempted to insert coins into the machine.  Unfortunately the machine rejected the coins.  My next attempt was to shim the comparator rake, thinking that the rake solenoid was bad.  Since this did not help, I am thinking that the comparator is not sending the signal to the rake, and therefore the coin counter is not accepting the coins for credits.  Is that good thinking for a grasshopper, or am I stinking up the place worse than a cat that doesn't cover up his litter box "deposits"?


* 1009112025.jpg (544.82 KB, 2048x1536 - viewed 296 times.)
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poppo
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« Reply #31 on: October 09, 2011, 11:11:08 PM »

Did you try your test with the door closed? Is the insert coin light lit?

Tying back the rake should make the coin fall into the hopper. Assuming that is happening, the coin optics should still work. There should be a small white test button on the optics that should add a credit when pressed.
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MrMrsSlots
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« Reply #32 on: October 09, 2011, 11:46:49 PM »

The Coins Played flashes alternately with the Insert Coins.  The Coins Played indicates 0.  If I press the white test button on the coin counter, the Coins Played goes to 1, then 2, then maxes out at 3.  At this point I can NOT play the machine.  If I close the door, the Coins Played goes back to 0.  The white test button does NOT cause the credit count to increase.
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poppo
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« Reply #33 on: October 10, 2011, 12:06:53 AM »

Ok, the alternating coins played with insert coins is normal until you play a game after opening the door.

Pressing the test button is registering the coins properly (it won't add credits, it just simulates coins being inserted), but you say you can't play it (with the door open). Did you try the handle or the spin button, or both? It should play the game. And closing the door should remove them, so that is working too.
« Last Edit: October 10, 2011, 12:12:04 AM by poppo » Logged
MrMrsSlots
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« Reply #34 on: October 10, 2011, 12:43:16 AM »

Tried the Spin button and the Handel.  Both cause the wheels to spin.  So we are back to why it is not accepting the coins, and why it is not giving me credits.  What oh what do I check next.   Scratch Head  Seems like the comparator is bad?  Would that cause the counter to not add credits?  Even if I have the rake pinned up?
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poppo
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« Reply #35 on: October 10, 2011, 12:50:59 AM »

The coin comparator's sole job is to check to see if the coin is valid (and divert extra coins to the tray). If the rake is tied back and the coin is going into the hopper (and though the coin optics), then it should work. Is the coin dropping into the hopper or the tray? Your coin optics may be bad. Do you know what SP chip you have? If not, read this and let us know. We can then do a coin optics test.

http://www.newlifegames.net/spset/SPSS.htm

BTW, you are not going to add credits (since you have no BV) unless you win and have it set to pay wins to credit. All you will be able to do is add 3 coins at a time to coins played (unless you have a SP chip that supports extra coins in). But credits is not an issue at this point.

And just to verify that the CC does nothing as far as registering coins, I pulled mine out (I have a door bypass switch) and dropped a coin directly into the optics and it registered fine.
« Last Edit: October 10, 2011, 12:58:20 AM by poppo » Logged
MrMrsSlots
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« Reply #36 on: October 10, 2011, 01:21:38 AM »

Chip #'s, starting with the smallest and going left to right, top to bottom:

221A
9913 Y

P03SF
CD4093BCM

14520B
XAB9937

14585B
PAP016

14538B
XAB9940

With the rake tied back, the coins do go into the hopper, but do not register.

Nothing appears to be fried or loose.  Hopes this helps.
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« Reply #37 on: October 10, 2011, 01:22:02 AM »

Poppo is correct. Another thing to try is to lower the sensitivity of the comparitor. I believe that the sensitivity pot is located on the back of your comparitor in the lower left corner (upper left in your "sideways" picture above) There should be a small hole labeled + <--> –    Use a jeweler's screwdriver to turn the pot clockwise (all the way to the – side, then turn it back an eighth of a turn or so.

It looks like your Ike is seated correctly. The left side (top in your picture) should be between those two small plastic guides and the spring loaded slider should hold the coin snugly in place.
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« Reply #38 on: October 10, 2011, 01:26:18 AM »

Chip #'s, starting with the smallest and going left to right, top to bottom:

221A
9913 Y

P03SF
CD4093BCM

14520B
XAB9937

14585B
PAP016

14538B
XAB9940

Nothing appears to be fried or loose.  Hopes this helps.

Sorry, but that's not what we need. There are three socketed chips near the front of the tray (close to the blue volume knob). They are labeled (on the board) as "Game", "Reel", and "CMOS".

We're interested in the Game chip. If there is a sticker on it with something like "SP731" or "SP1048", post that number. If there is no sticker, then you can get the number from the test menu.

With the slot machine turned on and the door open, press the white test button (NOT the white coin optic button) until you see a 4 in the coin in window. You should see two numbers alternating in the winner paid (or credits) window. Write them down and post them.
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poppo
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« Reply #39 on: October 10, 2011, 01:27:02 AM »

Another thing to try is to lower the sensitivity of the comparitor.

But if they are going to the hopper, (rake tied back or not), there is something else wrong.

MrMrsSlots ,

Those numbers you posted are not what we need. We are looking for a SPXXXX number. That link will show you how to get it in self test mode. Unless ithe game chip is labled.

<edit> I'm slow on the keyboard tonight.  Tongue Out
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« Reply #40 on: October 10, 2011, 01:31:17 AM »

Another thing to try is to lower the sensitivity of the comparitor.

But if they are going to the hopper, (rake tied back or not), there is something else wrong.

MrMrsSlots ,

Those numbers you posted are not what we need. We are looking for a SPXXXX number. That link will show you how to get it in self test mode. Unless ithe game chip is labled.

<edit> I'm slow on the keyboard tonight.  Tongue Out

He said that the machine rejected the coins with the rake in place and still didn't work with the rake removed (shimmed). That suggests that he has problems with both components. Adjusting the sensitivity might (or might not) solve the comparitor issue. If coins dropping into the hopper are not registering, solving that issue will be the second part of the fix.
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« Reply #41 on: October 10, 2011, 01:35:24 AM »

He said that the machine rejected the coins with the rake in place and still didn't work with the rake removed (shimmed). That suggests that he has problems with both components. Adjusting the sensitivity might (or might not) solve the comparitor issue. If coins dropping into the hopper are not registering, solving that issue will be the second part of the fix.

Yes, there does seem to be an issue with the CC, but it's easy enough to bypass for now. IMO getting the optics to register a coin is the more pressing issue. You can play with a broken CC, but not with a broken optics.
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MrMrsSlots
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« Reply #42 on: October 10, 2011, 01:48:58 AM »

Adjusting pot did not help solve the rake issue.  As for the chip:

S-PLUS  GAME 10MHZ
SP1271  TYPE 0/1/4/5/19
10/28/02   (1-512)
2002 IGT  WII  S

As for further posts, it is 23:47 here, and I get up for work at 05:15.  I will check posts tomorrow.  Thanks again for all your help.
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« Reply #43 on: October 10, 2011, 01:50:00 AM »

Also just to verify, with the rake tied back and the door open, does the coin actually drop through the optics?  

Here is the PSR for your SP1271

The coin input tests are what you will want to do.

* SP1271.doc (95 KB - downloaded 171 times.)
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« Reply #44 on: October 10, 2011, 02:12:08 AM »

...You can play with a broken CC, but not with a broken optics.

That true.  yes


Actually, I'm surprised to see a 1271 in there. The machine is a pre-dbv S+ so it can't make use of the all of the split limits the way one would with a dbv.
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« Reply #45 on: October 10, 2011, 11:46:54 AM »

Unplug and take out your coin comparitor. Replace that coin you have in there with a new one. Make sure that new coin sits in there snug and even, it's important! If that doesn't work, take the cc back out and, I know it seems crazy, but, use the butt of a screwdriver and tap hard on the square-metal shaped area on your cc. Now put it back in and try.
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« Reply #46 on: October 10, 2011, 12:07:53 PM »

Replace that coin you have in there with a new one.

I think he already did replace it. But that is not the biggest problem. The optics are not registering coins.

As noted earlier, there are multiple problems, but the CC can be bypassed for now. IMO it is a waste of time messing with the CC until the optics issue is resolved. Sure he can play around with the CC, but even if he gets that working, the machine still won't work.
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Jim
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« Reply #47 on: October 10, 2011, 12:58:16 PM »

just by looking at the picture you can tell that it is a dollar machine. IGT only made two types of base coin head, one for dollars and one for small coin (5-10-25-50). there may be others for other world currencies, but for U.S. coins I have only seen these two.
the dollar back plate is on the left side (as you face machine) all the others are on the right side. you can use different back plates for each coin, the base is the same.
because the opening is on the left for dollars, the coin mech. is inserted backwards so it will align itself to accept the coin and output the coin into the optics (optics don't change ) they accept ALL coins on the left side. in order to do this the four plastic holders have to be changed also. there are two positions for these as well. all the way in,for dollar coin acceptors, all the way out, is for all other coin denomination, with the CC facing so you can see the sample coin.
given all the information so far, by bet is the coin optics are bad, removing Q-2 or Q-4  should solve his problem. if his cc is bad, he can shim out the rake, and use it as is.
bottom line, remove the transistor, and machine should be good to go. won't cost you a penny to get the machine to work.

Jim     
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« Reply #48 on: October 10, 2011, 01:11:24 PM »

because the opening is on the left for dollars, the coin mech. is inserted backwards so it will align itself to accept the coin and output the coin into the optics (optics don't change ) they accept ALL coins on the left side.

Agreed. I only suggested to drop a coin though with the door open just to be absolutely sure it was indeed going into the optics. The optics test button works, so as long as the coin is actually dropping through, that only leaves a bad optics.
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« Reply #49 on: October 10, 2011, 01:43:28 PM »

just by looking at the picture you can tell that it is a dollar machine. IGT only made two types of base coin head, one for dollars and one for small coin (5-10-25-50). there may be others for other world currencies, but for U.S. coins I have only seen these two.
the dollar back plate is on the left side (as you face machine) all the others are on the right side. you can use different back plates for each coin, the base is the same.

Jim     

OK Jim here's the 3rd type.  I know your thinking I could have modified this one from a 50 cent coin head, but I didn't. This one has never seen a grinder. I'm pretty sure I got this coin head from Joey

Had a fellow that just had to have a dollar S 2000, I put all this in a machine and he bought a quarter machine. Go figure !! All I can say is, I have it ready for the next dumb S*** that wants a dollar machine.

>edit<  Jim    plastic CC clips are all the way out.


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« Last Edit: October 10, 2011, 01:50:49 PM by Buzz » Logged

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