IGT s-plus game chip.SP1137 change

[Bentley Bear]

Hello !
I need to change my game chip SP1137.I have had error code 62_0 a couple of times.I have orderd a new chip and was wondering if this is the right way to set up th machine with the new chip:

Initializing the new gameAfter installing the main system board, install the hopper and turn the power switch on. The machine should come to life and you should see a "61" displayed in the winner paid window. - You may see a 65, 66 or 67 in the window instead. See the below illustrations and pictures to see what you need to do for each code displayedIf you see a "65, 66, or 67"code after making a chip change - Power off the machine, then back on. You should then see a 61 displayed in the winner paid window.When you get a 61 press and hold the white test button next to the power switch until you hear a "Ding"Once you get a 61 1 close door completely and turn the jackpot reset key one timeNote: - A Common problem that occurs after a game change is that you will see a 61- 1 code after you hold the test button in and hear the "Ding" but you close the door and turn the reset key and nothing happens. This is usually caused by an open door to the cash storage container or a misaligned Bill validator. - Check all your doors to be certain they are completely closed before closing the main machine door.

Also,the reel music was missing.It  just suddenly stopped and i had to take out the board and set the dipswitch to "on" instead of "off" and the music came back but with a "click" sound when the reels stops.Does this have anything to do with the game chip since i didn't have this problem before ?
Thanks for all help

[slot monkey]

Welcome to NLG

I believe the 10 mhz board does not use the dip switch settings so you must have a 16 mhz board.

@poppo

thanks for the heads up on the dip switches



The click sound has replaced the handle solenoid reel stop noise, this is a setting issue and can be changed.

Here's a couple of links that might help:

http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=15701.0

http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=16768.0

http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=5172.0

[stayouttadabunker]

The SP1137 Montana Credits chip is a special 10MHz chip which allows one to drop as many coins as they want
and they all go to the credit display.
It does indeed utilize the dip switches and they are as follows:

DIP SWITCH OPTIONS
The dual in-line package switch selection chart is located on the processor board tray.  The options for this machine are:  hopper limit (switches 1 and 2), reel-spin sound (switch 3), fast or normal game speed (switch 4), progressive enable/disable (switch 5), high/low or alternating progressive (switch 6), double or single progressive (switch 7), and link or standalone progressive (switch 8).  The DIP switch configuration is displayed in the self test mode.




It also has a special Idle Music Mode in the Sound Test that one can set as well:


Idle Mode Music Selection   
Activates songs and allows selection of the song that is played during the attract mode. 
Turn the jackpot reset key to select a song. 
Press the self test button to save the selection.




This SP1137 chip may not work for games that have special Haywire Type 2 features
and could explain why you're getting the [62-0] error.
What SS reel chip are you using?...>>>

GAME TYPE
Type 0 (no special features), Type 1 (Slam Dunk, Balloon Bars, etc.), Type 4 (Spin ’Til You Win), Type 5 (4th of July), Type 12 (Fever), and Type 14 (Tournament).  The tournament option can be enabled in the self test mode, provided the correct paytable program, beginning with STxxxx, is installed.  Type 0 games support nine paylines.

[Bentley Bear]

Thanks for your fast reply.The reel chip i have is SS4471 (1-64) (Red,white and blue 5-lines)
When i bought the machine,the seller showed me all i needed to know about it.He took out the pcb and pointed out the important chips(game and reel chip).
He had never had any error codes on it.I played a lot of coins and bills on it before i took it home but then he suddenly got a 32 error.He open the door and cleared it.After that he got the 62_0 error and after that another 30 something error that he couldn't clear.
I got the machine cheaper since he couldn't figure our the error code.When i plugged in the machine at home,the error code was not there and the machine worked fine.After that i have had some reel tilts(40 something error codes) + another 62_ code.
The reel music was there from the beginning but suddenly stopped at home.The only sounds i had was the coin sounds and winning sound + a beep sound for each reel stopping.
I took out the pcb and changed the dipswitch 3 to ON position and then the reel music came back but with the anoying clicking sound for each  reel + handle.

Now ,when i turn on the machine the only thing that happens is the reels spin one time and the insert coins light comes on + 0 coins played.
Since the 1,2,3,4,5 lines on the left of the glass doesen't light up,i can't insert coins and play the machine

[stayouttadabunker]

SS4471 RW&B 5C 5L is a Type 0 game so the SP1137 should work with it -
providing you're using a 10MHz MPU board...
 
Here's a link to a list of some of the S+ error codes you're getting...>>>

http://www.newlifegames.net/igterrors/

Go back on the MPU and flip the 3rd dipswitch to the "Off" position and see what happens to your sounds.
However, you're having other start up problems which need to be addressed first that are more important...
Are your reel tilts (41/42/or 43) caused by a loose reel harness connector under the reel shelf?
Un-plug those (with power off) and re-seat them...could be just old, oxidized male pins and female receptor pins.
Re-plugging the connectors may grab a new contact and rub some of the oxidization off the pins.
If you have a can of contact spray cleaner ("De-Oxit" is a good brand), spray the pins before re-plugging them.

Also, check and see if your reel glass display panel nuts are tight.
Should be 3 nuts holding the panel underneath the reel glass shelf on the door.
If loose, the display will tilt rearwards ever so slightly making contact with one
or more of the reel basket rims causing a "4x" reel tilt error.
Check also the strips are fully inserted into the reel basket grooves
and not sitting on top of the baskets at any place.

Finally, the reel glass BET line display on the left hand side...re-seat the connector going into it with the power off.
Another possible place for pin oxidization....too much heat in that area from the door panel fluorescent lighting can cause that to not work as well.
With the power off...check all three fuses ( doesn't hurt to check) on the power supply:
Top Fuse=6A
Middle Fuse=8A
Bottom Fuse=6A
All "Quick-Blow" fuses only!!!
I want to see if your seller installed the correct fuses.
If not, then you are slowly burning out IC components in your machine without you knowing about it.
This is of course, the seller's fault.

[Bentley Bear]

Fuses and nuts are OK.The seller had the machine for about 3-4 months before i bought it and had never had any error codes.
Here is some more info:The machine was working well(suddenly no more error codes) untill i recieved the first game chip i orderd.The label said SP1311.I contacted the seller(he was the one who gave me the instructions on how to repalce the game chip) and he told me try it as he thought he had labled it wrong.I installed the chip and got the code 61.I tried to follow the instructions but all i got out of it was the reels was spinning in the opposite direction so i guess the chip i got was wrong.
The seller has sendt me a new chip.Hopefully i will recieve it within a couple of days.
I installed the old chip back and now the reels spin once and the insert coins light is on + 0 coins played.Nothing more happens.The only thing i can do is to go into test mode.
It was also like this when the machine was working ok.Sometimes when i turned the power on(insert coins light  + 0 coins played) and nothing more happend.After a coulpe minutes(sometimes longer) the insert coins light  + 0 coins played light whent out  for some seconds and then all the lights in the display came back on(1,2,3,4,5 on the left + winner paid and credit and the button lights.

[stayouttadabunker]

You need to read Rick's FAQ on the right hand side on the homepage...or go to this link below.
Read all of it and do your best to understand it.
Get really familiar with how an S+ is set up...>>>


http://www.newlifegames.net/spset/gamechange.htm

[poppo]

Since the 1,2,3,4,5 lines on the left of the glass doesen't light up,i can't insert coins and play the machine

FYI, the lights on the side will show what number of lines were last played. So they may not always all be lit, especially after clearing an an error.

[poppo]

I believe the 10 mhz board does not use the dip switch settings so you must have a 16 mhz board.

Just to clarify, it's the 16MHz boards that don't have DIP switches. The 10MHz boards do, but some of the newer some SP chips don't use them.

[stayouttadabunker]

Without any documentation in front of me - I'd guess that the SP1311 requires a 16MHz board.
I could be wrong on this.


ADD>>> I was wrong...it uses a plain 10MHz MPU though the PSR doesn't say so.

See attachment...>>> Website won't allow a .docx sheet to load here...sorry.

[poppo]

Without any documentation in front of me - I'd guess that the SP1311 requires a 16MHz board.
I could be wrong on this.

My list (from here) shows it as a 10MHz.
SP1311 Type 0,1,4,5,14 (Tournament) 10MHz ("much faster than SP1253") ID023, $0.01/0.05, SET088/89/90/91/101/102/116 - SAS EFT

The SP1309 is listed as 16MHz
SP1309 Type 0,1,4,5,14 (Tournament) 16MHz, ID023, SET088/89/90/91/101/102/121, $0.01/0.05 - SAS EFT

[poppo]

After a coulpe minutes(sometimes longer) the insert coins light  + 0 coins played light whent out  for some seconds and then all the lights in the display came back on(1,2,3,4,5 on the left + winner paid and credit and the button lights.

Also check the white molex connector that goes to the motherboard (the board the MPU pugs into) and see if it looks burnt. See this thread. It can cause some intermittent issues.

http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=9367.0

[stayouttadabunker]

Without any documentation in front of me - I'd guess that the SP1311 requires a 16MHz board.
I could be wrong on this.

My list (from here) shows it as a 10MHz.
SP1311 Type 0,1,4,5,14 (Tournament) 10MHz ("much faster than SP1253") ID023, $0.01/0.05, SET088/89/90/91/101/102/116 - SAS EFT

The SP1309 is listed as 16MHz
SP1309 Type 0,1,4,5,14 (Tournament) 16MHz, ID023, SET088/89/90/91/101/102/121, $0.01/0.05 - SAS EFT

Interesting...both Type 0 games yet on differing MPU's.
I would have bet some Swiss franc's an SP1311 would require a 16MHz MPU.

[Bentley Bear]

I checked the fuses again and saw something strange.Since i live in Norway,i guess the fuses are a bit different in my machine.

Top fuse:6A
Middle fuse:8A
Bottom fuse:20A
This is what the label states inside the machine on each fuse.

Top and middle fuses are correct (6+8 A)
I took out the bottom fuse and it's a 10A.I switched it with a 20A fuse but it made no difference,just a quick freeze when the reels started spinning and whent back to the same condition as before.I changed back to the 10A.
Does it make any difference if it's a 10 or 20 A fuse ?
Are my fuses correct ?

[stayouttadabunker]

A 20Amp in a 6Amp socket is never good...
Too much juice man! That is allowing 14 extra amperage of power to the lines...!!!
You better go to the store and buy a 6A and stick it there but
it may be already way too late.
Ask your seller why he put a 20A fuse in there and see what he says.
I'll bet he's way past his eye prescription limits for his reading glasses... 

I wonder if there are burned out circuit traces on the motherboard?  

[Bentley Bear]

The motherboard looks very good.No burnmarks.The strange thing is that the label says 20A.There was no 20A fuse in there but a 10A.Is the correct fuse 6A even though the label says 20A ????

[stayouttadabunker]

What's the common household voltages in wall sockets in Norway? 220Volts?

[poppo]

Did you check that power supply cable posted above?

[Bentley Bear]

Here in Norway we have 220 V.I have posted on a forum here in Norway about the fuses because i know one guy there also has an IGT machine like mine.He was the one who gave me the tip about this site.

[Buzz]

A 20Amp in a 6Amp socket is never good...
Too much juice man! That is allowing 14 extra amperage of power to the lines...!!!
You better go to the store and buy a 6A and stick it there but
it may be already way too late.
Ask your seller why he put a 20A fuse in there and see what he says.
I'll bet he's way past his eye prescription limits for his reading glasses...  

I wonder if there are burned out circuit traces on the motherboard?  

Bunker  Think about it.     A over size fuse isn't going to produce or allow any extra amperage to flow to the protected component.

 I guess what I'm trying to say is the number rating on a fuse isn't the amount of amps that flow through a fuse, they are the rating of the amount of amps that are required to cause the fuse to blow in the event of a malfunction of the protected component. I think if a fuse somewhere along the line restricted the amps it would no longer be a fuse it would now be a resistor. ( I think I'm right )  

[poppo]

Ok, before we get too fixated on fuses, let's remember that fuses only limit the amount of current that can flow though them before they blow. They won't let more current flow unless there is a higher demand. For example, if there is a load that typically pulls 4 amps, one may have a 6 amp fuse. That way if something shorts, as soon as the current rises to 6 amps, the fuse will blow. So assuming the 4 amp load is working properly, one could put a 50 amp fuse in there and it would still only draw 4 amps. Of course if something did short, then a lot of other items would cook before the 50 amp fuse blows.

So since there was a 10 amp fuse in there to begin with (assuming it was not blown), I would just put that back in. However you may want to swap fuse holder caps around as they have a tendency to go bad and see if the symptoms change.

Have you checked that power supply cable noted above. It is known to cause issues if it is burnt.  

And when you had the MPU out, did you unplug the small transformer? I ask because I've plugged it in offset by a pin and had some strange things happen.

Also, look at the pins on the bottom of the MPU. Sometimes one gets bent and the MPU does not seat properly.

<edit> LOL Seems Buzz was on the same page on the fuses.

[stayouttadabunker]

You guys may be right about the fuses but there is not much play between a 6A and 8A fuse - only 2 amps!!!
I do not take a chance with these machines and install the correct fuses only.
IGT labels the fuse holders as 6A, 8A, and 6A from top to bottom for a designed specific reason.
I cannot make a recommendation to install higher-rated fuses.

Why this machine has a label that says 10A for an S+ on the bottom fuse holder is very strange
and I have never seen that before. 
I would like to see a photograph of this fuse box and it's labels. 

While you can change the house hold current/power into the transformer,
depending on where the machine is located, by moving the purple wire, and jumping another wire in the bus -
the rated amperage for the 3 main fuses in an S+ machine on the fuse box remains the same for all S+'s.

If you want to fry stuff in your machine, then put in larger rated fuses -
you can just about guarantee that over time, something will eventually burn out.

I agree fully with Poppo that the 6-pin Molex going to the motherboard from the power supply should be looked at.
The green ground receptor pins are well known to become weakened and oxidized -
creating intermittent contact within the connector housing with the motherboard pins.
These pins CAN be cleaned with a de-oxidization spray but it does not address the weakened female receptor pins -
one might get lucky though and have it work for a long time after cleaning.

A simple method that helps is to turn the power off, unplug and re-seat that Molex about half a dozen times quickly.
What that does is sort of scrape the male pins a bit - sometimes creating better contact.
It's not a bad temporary fix.

[Bentley Bear]

Power supply cable and the connectors are all ok.No burnmarks at all.The pcb is superclean(Looks like it just came out of the factory).No burnmarks.
I got an answer from the other forum and he told me that the fuses he had in his machine was 6A,8A and 3A
I looked again on the label and i think i got it all wrong(T3,20A 230V)
Well,her are 2 pictures.One with the fuses and one with the currect status of the machine.

[poppo]

With the door open, does pressing the self test button do anything on the display?

If so, when you close the door, what happens to the display?

[Buzz]

Good, Bad or Otherwise  here's my fix!!