Universal Power Supplies

[NZRick]

Dear Fellow forum members and or possibly uniman

Have been trying to post a little on a Universal Machine I recently aquired it's a Fire Bird five reel machine and yes it's an Aussie make. the main board had 3 missing caps they were 104Z 12v which I replaced . the machine did nothing but same ole same 9ole as many guys who have posted here nothing save the hum of the speaker, After replacing the caps the error code LEDS began to work again but thats is all. The power supplu in the machine is different than the 4 colour coded ones that Uniman has covered. The noise filter is directly soldered to the the PSU PCB this has no wire connections like the other. so if it is removed there will be no immediate near by wires/leads to connect it too. Might I ask how I would manage to complete the missing circuit connection after it's removal. I will try to ad pics but have been having problems doing that in here.

The reset key switch is missing the the key of course but being an x lock smith I can manage to shim it open or pick it. The wires are no longer connected to the rear and there are three wires near the siwtch which I believe are the proper ones however no life from them at all. The machine lacks a hopper and the coin detector is inoperative however I feel it's  worth the effort to try and restore. So like all the others I would be very grateful for any assistance here .

Wishing you all the very finest of Holidays

NZ Rick

[uniman]

A bit late on this reply!
I have a power supply from an Un poker machine. My rectifier board looks much different than the one posted above. I would check the input and then output of the noise filter to determine if it is ok. Also, I do not see the 5v regulator. See my next post below.

Added; I have an Aussie power supply that matches the one above. I had mistaken the poker power supply for the Aussie power supply. Corrected my posts.

[uniman]

Recently repaired a Uni narrow power supply by taking the rectifier board out of an Aussie Uni poker power supply.
Checked out the defective board tonight and found the problem. There is a 5v regulator attached outside the power supply. It has two pins that reach the rectifier board, go through two holes and are pressed against two little solder domes. What I found was one of the solder domes had broken off leaving a pin unconnected. I had taken a picture of the defective board after I removed it/before I knew the problem but didn't post it as it was blurry. But you can see the hole in the solder in the pic where I added a red circle.
Took out the regulator, resoldered the dome and replaced the regulator. Tested and it works great.

If you have a Uni Narrow slot or maybe an Aussie Uni poker with bad 5vdc this maybe the problem.

[uniman]

Picture of the 5v regulator (the round metal object below the right connector)
And the Uni poker rectifier board I have.

[NZRick]

Hi Uniman

Wanted to thank you much for your response to my earlier posting re uni power supply. as I also posted at the same time there is a 14V AC adapter which was added to the power supply for who knows what purpose. the two power cord leads are soldered onto the on off switch for the inside of the power supply directly to the rear of the switch and the other free end of the adapter is detached from whatever it was once connected too. As this adapter doesn't seem to be part of the original arrangement I am stumped as to where it was intended to go. 

I am also a total dud when it comes to electronics so am in total darkness when you suggest that I check the noise filter as I do not know what is involved with checking it. I do have a hand held multimeter but do not know where to place the leads to check. The leads that connected to the reset lock switch seem dead there is no spark that comes from them when touched together.

Looks like perhaps a real hard case here.


Very much appreciate your kind input and time here.

You be well good sir

Cheers

NZRick

[uniman]

Well NZRick, I'm not very good with electronic circuits either, but I'm learning. In fact I had errored, the replacement rectifier board was from an old Uni poker machine, not the Aussie machine. Found the Aussie power supply in a box on one of my shelfs. It has the same rectifier board as yours. I corrected my above posts.
As far as your noise filter, it looks like a different brand than the ones that commonly fail.
When I say check it I mean look for continuity in the input/output of the noise filter. This would require setting your meter to ohms and putting one lead on the input and the other on the output. If your meter doesn't move then the circuit is broken in the noise filter.
I'll check my Aussie power supply tomorrow and see what voltages it has.

[NZRick]

Uniman

I am very grateful again for your taking the time to share your sage on this subject. When I say I don't' know much about electronics I mean I am a total wally. Not sure which would be input or output and that would be very likely to most in here I would imagine but not thee ole git here. Do I look for a specific board contact location for the tester probes and would also guess that power would have to be applied. DUH to me.I am still puzzling as to why someone would have attached the separate 14V power adapter to the  on off switch unless there was something dead on the power board itself. will take a pic of the debacle and post it for thine scrutiny kind sir. I also have a copy of the universal manual but have found it very difficult at best to decode as I believe the illustrations would be most likely interpreted via electron microscope.It' just not a great manual this one and I am not schooled in the art of schematic deciphering 

Much much thanks and well wishing mate.

NZ Rick

[uniman]

Hi Rick,
Ok, so you are a "total wally". I'm just slightly ahead of you. 

You have a machine that will not start up. First thing to check is all connections. Then check power supply. After that suspect the mpu board.
So I assume you have checked the connections. Let's look at the power supply. No need to disassemble yet, just need to check the outputs. Especially the 5vdc, that is what powers the mpu board.
Pink wires are +5vdc, black wires are ground. Here in the states an orange wire is 24vdc and violet wire is 32vdc. On my Aussie power supply I see 14vdc on orange and 40vdc on violet. Not sure if this is normal or not?
You should check the 5vdc. See the picture below. I have my cheapo-wal-mart meter set to 10vdc and the red (+) lead on the pin to a pink wire and the black (ground) on the pin with a black wire. My meter shows 5vdc telling me I do not need to check the noise filter as power is getting through.

WARNING: you are new to this. Do not stick your fingers in the power supply while it is on! Also, even with the power supply off those black cylinders on the rectifier board are capacitors. They store voltage and touching their two leads at the same time will shock you good!! Proceed at your own risk!

Leaving the black lead on the black wire pin you can move the red lead to an orange wire to see if you get 14vdc also.

Looking at my power supply from the back the wiring is like this on the 15-pin connector;
                                                                                               orange    orange   yellow/blk strip    grey          black
                                                                                               violet      yellow    black                  pink          black
                                                                                               violet      white     black                  pink           red 

[NZRick]

Sir Uniman,

NOW one begins to build a picture of which approach to take here. You have just filled in ALL those vacancies up here in the empty head motel. Thine truly arteth a flower amongeth weeds sir. Now the next bit is trying to find two sets of IGT door sensors which should prove as easy as finding a wallet that fell from a Cessna Skylane stuffed with $3 bills

I am in your debt sire for this priceless information.

Be well up there in your corner of the global woods good sir

Wishing you all good things from the land of the long white cloud

Rick

[Highland99]

Helllo, I have a Universal "Double Black Jack" slot machine that was working when I first got it. It now shows an error code of "12" in the display. The error code list located inside the cabinet says that it is "battery polarity". Can anyone help with this? thanks

[uniman]

Helllo, I have a Universal "Double Black Jack" slot machine that was working when I first got it. It now shows an error code of "12" in the display. The error code list located inside the cabinet says that it is "battery polarity". Can anyone help with this? thanks

I assume you have an 8600 board in that Double Black Jack.
Now I don't know why they printed Battery Polarity on the error code list??? It actually is a ram error. That usually means the battery on the board is going bad.
Can't remember where the ram clear button is on an 8600 board? But you need to hold the clear button while powering up the machine. But as soon as you shut it off the ram will go bad again until the battery is replaced.

[uniman]

Ram clear button is located on the right side of the board, says RESET SW next to it.

This link has pic of 8600 board; http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=4364.0

[Highland99]

Uniman, u seem to know your stuff when it comes to these machines. I appreciate the imput and I am on my way to my machine to try your fix. I will update you and upload some pics of it too. thanks