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| | |-+  Bally E2290 won't coin up/goes into tilt (FIXED)
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Author Topic: Bally E2290 won't coin up/goes into tilt (FIXED)  (Read 15511 times)
BR549 Auto Sales
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« on: May 24, 2012, 01:05:23 PM »

I have this machine that shows 50 .0.00 on the win meter and when I drop a quarter in it, it goes to the hopper but the tilt light comes on. I did the (2) test and all solenoids are pulling in etc. Also, the led lights on the reel boards are not on that may be part of the problem as well

Thanks,

David
« Last Edit: June 19, 2012, 01:32:06 AM by BR549 Auto Sales » Logged
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« Reply #1 on: May 24, 2012, 01:12:28 PM »

are you getting anything other than 50 on the win meter when you go into tilt?  try running machine in 8 mode.
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« Reply #2 on: May 24, 2012, 01:25:32 PM »

No, just the 50 000. How do I run it the 8 mode?
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« Reply #3 on: May 24, 2012, 02:40:26 PM »

Use the test button on the hopper board. Push it till you see an 8 in your win meter. At this point you should be able to drop a coin in or click the coin switch wire coin up the machine. You can do this with the door open. Pull the handle to test machine. I should play but won't pay out.

Gary
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« Reply #4 on: May 24, 2012, 03:08:30 PM »

Ok, I tried that, got the 8 in the win meter hit the coin switch and even dropped a coin through the chute, went to the hopper, but the pull angle stayed in the locked position and would not allow to play a game. After that, the 8 remained in the window
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« Reply #5 on: May 24, 2012, 11:31:07 PM »

Anything else I can try for this problem?

Thanks,

David
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« Reply #6 on: May 25, 2012, 01:57:49 AM »

When you ran test 2 did you watch to see if the solenoid for your handle release worked? There is a test you can run, I think it's 3 that allows you to test your switches. I don't have my manual in front of me so I'm not 100% on the test number. It should show you if you coin switch works

Gary
 
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« Reply #7 on: May 25, 2012, 02:08:27 AM »

I am not where the machine is right now, but will check and watch for the solonoid for the handle release. Does someone have info on the #2 and #3 test sequence in order?

Thanks,

David
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« Reply #8 on: June 02, 2012, 08:44:12 PM »

on the #2 test sequence, everything seems to be activating, guess I will check my wiring next unless someone knows of something else I can do.
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« Reply #9 on: June 03, 2012, 12:11:57 AM »

on the #2 test sequence, everything seems to be activating, guess I will check my wiring next unless someone knows of something else I can do.

Run test 3.. That will allow you to check your doors coin switch.. I would also check the coin switch trip wire to make sure it's not too far down. If it is the coin could pass before it counts the coins..
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« Reply #10 on: June 07, 2012, 02:31:04 PM »

Ok, back in front of this machine again. Ran the 2 test and the dolomite for the handle did work, ran the 3 test and the coin switch worked, ran the 8 test and all it would show in the window was 80 000, not the 82 000 like themanual said it should. I also tried the coin switch while in the 8 test and it stayed on 80 000.
Anything else I can check? It seems to me that the machine does not realize that it is ready for play/accept a coin mode
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« Reply #11 on: June 07, 2012, 03:03:52 PM »

During my #3 test, my kick switch, #10 is not showing in the display when I close the switch, could this be part of the problem?
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« Reply #12 on: June 07, 2012, 04:14:15 PM »

It is possible. You can try swapping it with the arm switch. The other thing you can do it check it with a meter. If it reads good on the meter then check for a broken wire.
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« Reply #13 on: June 07, 2012, 04:32:12 PM »

I tried the arm switch in it's place, same results, not showing in the window when the switch is closed.
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« Reply #14 on: June 07, 2012, 05:26:38 PM »

Then it sounds like you need to check the wiring from the switch to the molex plug on the back of the reels and from the plug back to the I/O board.
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« Reply #15 on: June 07, 2012, 09:14:59 PM »

If I don't find a wire issue then could it be a component on the IO board?
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« Reply #16 on: June 07, 2012, 10:22:24 PM »

If I don't find a wire issue then could it be a component on the IO board?

It's possible.. If you look at page 54 of the E-Series Manual you will see that the Kick and arm switch wires are on J-3 Inputs, pins 1 & 2.. Check that connection for corrosion or a broken wire..
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« Reply #17 on: June 07, 2012, 11:22:07 PM »

will do thanks
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« Reply #18 on: June 07, 2012, 11:23:32 PM »

One leg on this resistor on the coin switch is not soldered to anything, could that be the issue as well?


* bally coin switch problem.jpg (142.39 KB, 768x1024 - viewed 386 times.)
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« Reply #19 on: June 08, 2012, 01:15:58 AM »

I don't know if that's the problem, but the one end is soldered to the grey wire on the coin divertor just behind the switch. The other end is soldered to the left post on the coin switch, at least that's how the one is in my kitchen..  Tongue Out
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« Reply #20 on: June 08, 2012, 01:44:28 AM »

thanks for that info, i will solder it back and also look for a broken or damaged wire on the kick switch.
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« Reply #21 on: June 19, 2012, 01:36:38 AM »

the problem was the white wire with a green trace on the bottom switch at the rear of the hopper. I traced it all the way back to the IO board and it was not snug in the red connector, pushed it down into the connector. Now it works fine, but when I drop a coin in, shouldn't it "ding" for each coin dropped? Also when I hit a payline, it shows the correct payout on the win meter but drops anywhere from 2-5 extra coins more than it should.
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« Reply #22 on: June 19, 2012, 02:58:11 AM »

 Cool that you found the loose wire at the plug  applause  as for the coin ding I've had only a few machine do that but I do remember on my Continental if I turned off switch 1 on the MPU I could turn the ding off. Now for the hoppers over pay check these 2 things. First check the metal piece what the coin goes under, it has 2 Phillips screw holding it in place. Make sure it's close enought to the coin wheel so only one coin will go under it. I think it's call a wiper. Then second on the bottom of the hopper motor is a brake. Make sure it's not broken and moves freely and that the springs hooked up. I guess there is a third thing too, make sure the hoppers coin switch is adjusted correctly. When a coin is on the wheel shelve at the knife it goes under a roller that should roll freely. Make sure the switch counts each coin. K+ for the Good work and keep us posted.

Gary

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« Reply #23 on: June 19, 2012, 07:55:59 PM »

when you said check the bottom of the hopper, the brake, was you talking about the level switch?
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« Reply #24 on: June 19, 2012, 09:05:17 PM »

when you said check the bottom of the hopper, the brake, was you talking about the level switch?

If you turn the hopper over and look at it there is a flat metal spring loaded bracket. If you push that down you can rotate the hopper shelve wheel, and when you let go of it the shelve wheel stops rotating. Make sure those pivot points on the hopper motor move freely and are not sticking.
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