Test button???

[riothecat]

When I shut the door top light flashes and bottom one is about twice as fast

[edski]

That shows a door is still open.

[riothecat]

Can the door optic be bypassed?

[edski]

Can the door optic be bypassed?

Yes.
But the "Drop Door" is not the main cabinet door.
The "Drop Door" is actually not part of the Slot, but is located in the Stand.
There would be a wire running from the machine to a door switch in the stand.
Most of the time, this is just jumpered.

I'm not exactly sure where the jumper would be.
Anyone else know??

[riothecat]

Does the coin tray ( where the pay out goes have to be attached?

[edski]

Does the coin tray ( where the pay out goes have to be attached?

No.

[riothecat]

Should have board this week. Won't be posting till then except to answer your questions. But is there anything I should do in any particular order before I turn on machine after I install new MPU board

[AnDaLe!]

I would seriously think about ordering a clear chip/set chip package.  You can find one on ebay for about $8.  I am in similar shoes, changed the battery and now I am in the 61 loop.  It takes a clear chip to get out of it, and for $8 a clear chip on hand would be a good investment.  My clear chip will be here Tuesday, so I can hardly wait for the results!  Best of luck!

[AnDaLe!]

Also, I would not worry too much about the candle flashes for now.  I have the same, slow on top, fast on bottom, until I get to the 61, hit the test button, get the 61-1 and a ding, close the door, and hit the reset key.  At that point i get the top on slow and the bottom dark.  I also get the 61 again.....which is why I am stuck in the loop.

[AnDaLe!]

On my board it is just as in the pic, the CMOS chip is next to the game chip.  It clearly says CMOS on the board just as the pic indicates.   I also tried the suggestion to ground all pins, but it did not work for me.  Details are important.  FYI, you have an older game and it should be a 10mhz.  The 10mhz has the volume control on the board, which I think you mentioned previously.  The 16mhz is newer and the volume is programmable.  All of this I learned by reading older posts here in just the past 6 days.

[genebopp]

I have an splus that the lowers candle will flash every time that the door is opened and will continue to flash until the first game is played.  So if my machine was to have an unresolved error the upper candle would flash and I was to open the door the lower candle would flash till a game was played.  If it still had the error I would not be able to play a game so the lower would flash forever.  I do have a different splus that the candle stops flashing soon after closing the door.  I dont know why there is a difference.   The "odds" of your good machine having a dead battery, you touching the mpu AND it developing a optic problem have to be pretty high.  I really think I would stick to working on the parts you have already touched.

Its not new information for you but the candle in the video clearly works like the one I have that flashes till you play a game.  Funny thing is the machine that I have that stops flashing is a RWB.

<a href="http://www.youtube.com/v/w4BGwmj_rg4&rel=0" target="_blank">http://www.youtube.com/v/w4BGwmj_rg4&rel=0</a>

[stayouttadabunker]

Should have board this week. Won't be posting till then except to answer your questions. But is there anything I should do in any particular order before I turn on machine after I install new MPU board

Remove the SS and SP chips from your old MPU and inspect the legs.
Make sure that they completely straight when you re-install them in the correct direction onto the new MPU socket holes.

The best way to insert these eproms are to line up all the legs on one side into the row of socket holes then firmly
and evenly push the chip body against that row while lower the other row of legs down slowly into the socket.
Once you have all the legs in partly, push evenly straight down on top of the chip body -
to make all the legs go straight down fully into the socket holes.

After the SS and SP chips are inserted into their respective sockets, look closely to see
if any of the legs have folded under the chip body.
If so, pull the chip straight back out, inspect the legs, straighten any bent legs,
and try inserting the chip again until all the chips' legs are inserted correctly.

Then, inspect the MPU's pin legs (128 pins in all) to make sure THOSE are all good before installing it into the MPU cage.

[riothecat]

Ok, received new board, pulled sp and ss chips, made sure legs were straight, inserted them into slots. Checked battery voltage, 3.5. Put board into machine. Put hopper into machine, shut door turned on an 61 comes up. Now what should I do?

[stayouttadabunker]

Press the test button once for a few seconds, you should hear a "ding",
close the door and make sure the latch is fully down and turn the reset key once.

[riothecat]

Ok first still can't get it to ding. But turned the key and 007 in wp window 007 in credit window. 0 and 1 alternating in cp window.

[stayouttadabunker]

When you had a [61] on the display, it should have turned to [61-1] after you pressed the test button.
If not, then you need to check your test button.

[riothecat]

I've checked it for continuity. It has never done anything and far as dings and dongs. It has the same color wires as a previous post and it just does nothing.

[stayouttadabunker]

What do you mean when you say that you're checking for continuity on that switch?
The way to check is to remove the wires from that switch and test the switch with a multimeter upon its tabs.
When you close the door, does the candle go out momentarily?

[riothecat]

I pulled the wires from the switch. I connected my multimeter to switch turned multimeter to ohms pressed button and  the multimeter needle moved. I reconnected wires and pressed button with no noise whatsoever... I have never received a noise when I push the button. Nothing in any of the displays have ever changed when I press the button. The top and bottom candle are flashing. I can't tell ou if the bottom one is fast or medium or slow. But it is about 2 times quicker then top. On the subject of the door optics is there a way to bypass those. I was lookin at them a little closer and the one on the machine appears to have a glass object but the one on the door has not that. Also looking back we have nnever discussed dip switches. I've not found any dip switch posts here. If I turn and hold key and press spin button the wheels will spin every 5th time stopping at the same spot. That is the only time the wheels spin. I've checked and rechecked the wiring many times over. I really appreciate all the help and hope I can get this thing fixed soon. Thanks to everyone

[riothecat]

I guess I should figure out how to bypass door optics. Almost sure that it is stopping my progress.

[CommTech]

The fact that you cannot get the "Ding" sound when you press the reset button is leading me to believe that the switch (and possibly the door optics) wiring harness may not be properly fastened to the Motherboard.
Since the machine was working before you pulled the MPU to replace the battery, is it possible that one of the two main harnesses that connects near the BACK WALL part of your motherboard may have gotten jarred loose when you pulled the MPU board?

Can you take a clear picture of the complete Motherboard section and post it for us?

 

[riothecat]

I can take pics but I cannot post from phone or pad. I can email them. Ifn you want to send me your email address. No concerns about dip switches?

[CommTech]

The DIP switch's on the MPU board will not affect the issue you are having.  No need to worry about them. 
My Email address is in my profile as well as at the bottom left of each post (the envelope icon that says "mail this user"). 

[riothecat]

Ok I don't see mail this user on post. I see it in your profile but the email is hidden. I see mail this user in my post but not yours

[xpoc454]

I see it the same was as riotecat. no email this user.