Test button???

[CommTech]

I figured out why my email is not showing.  I have "Hide Email from Public" checked.  I thought that was referring to NON-Members. 

[genebopp]

fyi  it still doesn't show. says"hidden"

[riothecat]

Should I wait a week and start a fresh thread???

[xpoc454]

I see it now at the bottom left.

[CommTech]

Since all of your cable connections to the motherboard are secure and you checked the button for continuity, I would suggest trying a Clear chip to see if that helps. 

Question to others ... After pressing the white button for 3 seconds with the audible "Ding", does the LED display change to 61-1 immediately, or AFTER the door is closed?
It's been so long since I had to do this, I don't remember. 

I am wondering if the Door Open Candle indication will remain flashing until the TILT is cleared, or if there is actually a problem with the door optics?

I am wondering if these two issues (Error 61 with no audible "Ding" and the Flashing Candle) are related.   

[knagl]

Should I wait a week and start a fresh thread???

No, never. If you do that, your posts will just be moved into this thread. Please never start a second thread for the same issue on the same machine. You'd be depriving folks the troubleshooting information that has already been discussed in this thread, and we'd just go around in circles.

[AnDaLe!]

As someone experiencing this right now, I can say that the 61-1 that comes after pressing the test button until a ding, a second or two, comes before closing the door.  After a secure close, a quick turn of the reset key should take you where you want to be.  If it does not, you need a clear chip (which arrived yesterday and made my machine work!).  Best of luck!

[CommTech]

As someone experiencing this right now, I can say that the 61-1 that comes after pressing the test button until a ding, a second or two, comes before closing the door.  After a secure close, a quick turn of the reset key should take you where you want to be.  If it does not, you need a clear chip (which arrived yesterday and made my machine work!).  Best of luck!

Thanks AnDaLe!!   

[stayouttadabunker]

Yes...that was a very good post and answer andale! 
I know that you JUST went through this and Clea chipped your MPU and motherboard eeprom. 

I however believe that the door emitter optic or the cabinet receiver optic may not be working properly on riothecat's machine.
You can't really check the cabinet receiver optic but you can check the door emitter optic to see if it's working by looking at the emitter diode through a video camera.
It will appear like it's "pulsing" or "blue-ish bright".
Looking at the receiver optic with a camera does nothing though as it's designed to only receive the emitter light.

When the door is closed, these two optics should be perfectly lined up so the cabinet receiver optic sees the door emitter light.
If they're not lined up perfectly, you can never get past the [61-1] code when the door is closed.
One way to check is to physically remove the door emitter's two screws and with the door almost closed - point the emitter directly against the cab. receiver optic and turn the reset key while you're at [61-1].
If the MPU resets then you know the optics weren't LINED UP properly and they're functional!
All you gotta do now is line them up.
The emitter optic on the door latch is usually the one that's a bit off...esp. if the two retaining screws have come loose.
I just basically loosen and re-tighten the two screws when the holes of the plastic optic holder is in the middle position and get them lined up pretty good.
Buzz has showned us a nice way in some of his optic posts how to do it with a magic marker and some tape.
It's much easier than removing the reel glass to line them up.

Oh! One more thing....the speaker should ALWAYS emit a "ding" sound when the service credit button is depressed on the coin-in optics board adding a credit to the reel glass display.
If not, then either the potentiometer volume dial is turned down on the 10 Mhz MPU,
or your speaker wires are not connected to the speaker properly.

JIM is very good with the Test modes when troubleshooting various functions on an S+, maybe he'll chime in here!
I usually refer to the specific SP PSR sheets for the installed SP chip to do these Tests. 

[riothecat]

Ok machine optic there is something like a glass eye. On the door optic there is not. The potentiometer for the speaker is at about half. I've only heard it once when I put the coin hopper in. It has never dinged when I pressed the self test button. I have ordered a clear chip so waiting in that.  I have never seen a 61-1 code however after I turn the key after pressing the self test button I get a 007 in both windows. Thoughts???

[stayouttadabunker]

Let me clarify what you are saying?
You're saying that there's NO glass in the door EMITTER optic?
Is it the black ones then?
IGT had three types of lens when they made these things.
They used different electronic suppliers at various times but they all did the same job, just looked different really...

Remember, the door emitter optic should have two wires going to it: a red one and a black one.
The cabinet receiver optic should also have two wires going to it: a red one and a white one.

[riothecat]

Yes the door optic has no glass like the machine side optic.not sure of colors of wires but I've not removed them. I've looks all around the floor for the glass part to no avail. The plastic that holds the emitter is black with 2 screws each.

[genebopp]

The optics do look different.  I assume it is the receiver (machine side) that has the glass eye and the door side looks very similar but doesn't have that  little glass budge on it.  I used my phone (razr) and looked at mine.  My TV remote looks like a light saber, the optic door optic is a lot harder to see but I can see it on the phone.  I know your trying to rule out the optics.  But rather than do something crazy, why dont you just extend the wires for one set of optics and duct tape the optics face to face.  I know that wouldn't tell you if the receiver has failed but, test leads and duct tape is really easy to reverse.

[stayouttadabunker]

Basically, if there's NO glass in there, it's like a broken light bulb. 

[riothecat]

Yes but the door is missing te cats eye the machine has one

[genebopp]

I just looked at both of my splus. they are both the same as you describe.

[stayouttadabunker]

Yes but the door is missing te cats eye the machine has one

Better go shopping...

[riothecat]

So genebopp has only 1 glass on machine and bunker what should I shop for?

[stayouttadabunker]

Why not take a picture of the door emitter and the cabinet receiver
and post them here?
Can you not borrow a decent camera?
Please give me better details...I have several pieces of glass on my machine? 

[riothecat]

Pics yes but can't figure out how to post from iPad or iPhone. But seems to be the same style optics as genebopp. I can send pics tonight after 7.  Sorry but my laptop puked and can't afford another right now. As far as further explaining . The optics ... The door side has a black piece of plastic about half way down door with a small brass round thing mounted inside of it. On machine side the same
Thing except the machine side has a "glass eye" in it.

[genebopp]

OK, so you have an IPAD.  I just tried my ipad 2.  Its camera does show the optic flashing.  The optic on the door is the sender.  It flashes IR.  I took out the florescent light above the reels so make my observation easier to see.  The optic doesn't flash much.  I had the machine on, using my IPAD 2 i could see the optic flashing dimly.  I pulled the plug out of the wall.  The optic dimmed down slowly.  I put the plug back in the wall.  The optic instantly glowed much brighter that it ever had before (no flashing, just on).  Right before the reels spun, it went out for a second, then started its flickering pattern.  My door optic is just about flush with the brass housing.  The machine optic has a fish eye bulge to it.

Obviously, none of that tests the machine side optic.  But if you try what I did, you should see if the sender is working.  The instant I powered up the machine the optic lit up.  There was no time for anything to power up.  As soon as the machine got power the optic lit.

I cant tell you whats wrong, I am just trying to tell you what is supposed to happen.

[riothecat]

Thank you. I'll try that tonight. So the door side optic has a glass or no?

[genebopp]

it does not have a fish eye.  There could be a little piece of flat glass inside the brass case, but to tell for sure I would have to poke it with a pin and I dont really want to do that.  But I would really doubt that glass or no glass, if it makes IR signals that is not your problem.

[genebopp]

I went and poked my S2000 with a pin.  The optics are bypassed in that one so I didnt care if i damaged it.  The part looks exactly the same as the Splus.  The face of the optic is clear plastic  that is flush with the brass case.

[dpalmi]

Here is a video that stayouttadabunker posted showing what the emitter optic will look like via a camera.

<a href="http://www.youtube.com/v/OIdPdiLXM_s&rel=0" target="_blank">http://www.youtube.com/v/OIdPdiLXM_s&rel=0</a>

Dan #2