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Author Topic: Audio Geak Needed  (Read 9414 times)
Neonkiss
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« on: July 07, 2009, 09:07:23 PM »

Hi All,
I have an issue that seems to be over my head or I just cant grasp the concept.

I have an AMI model C C/D 100 Jukebox. The amp is listed at 200 watts.
I wanted to play the jukebox when I sit out at the pool but I can't hear it because it's in the house.
(I could crank it up, so I could hear it through the  hurricane proof glass but my ears start to bleed when I come in to get another beer)

I purchased a wireless speaker and I'm sure it's not the best of quality. It has a 3.5mm input jack into the wireless transmitter. The jack has the standard three contacts
(a common ground for both left and right channels and a positive for the left and one for the right channel) I have determined that I can only use this as a mono speaker since my amp does not support a common ground for each channel (See attached diagram for my amp)

My big issue now is that if I use the mono 4 watt or 8 watt from the amp to the transmitter I have to turn up the volume on the jukebox so high it's blasting in the house again. On low volume it does not put out enough ?? (oomph) to the wireless transmitter.
Forgive my lack of knowledge in this area but I don't know what the output is from an amp. Volts? Watts? Both?

If the rheostat for the volume on the jukebox is governing this output could I tap my input to the wireless transmitter before the volume control on the jukebox. I could then adjust the volume on the wireless receiver speaker with the volume control that is built into it.

If I could do that would you kindly tell me how with the wiring diagram attached?


* amp page 1.jpg (603.17 KB, 2199x1699 - viewed 450 times.)

* amp page 2.jpg (555.3 KB, 2199x1699 - viewed 430 times.)
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videoporker
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« Reply #1 on: July 07, 2009, 10:29:22 PM »

3.5mm input jack?
Isn't that input designed for plugging a headphone/earplug line level output to it?
Way different than a speaker output.
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« Reply #2 on: July 07, 2009, 10:55:05 PM »

correct, you are connecting a high current/low impedance output and with a low current/high impedance input, you can blow your amp, so disconnect it.  Ideally you want to tap into the preamp stage.  You might want to ask advice from this place:

http://www.vendoramusements.com/bbs/nph-YaBB.pl?board=jukebox/0
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Neonkiss
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« Reply #3 on: July 07, 2009, 11:13:40 PM »

Thanks All.  applause applause

Ya, That's an headphone jack for a MP3 Player type of device. That's what was confusing me and why I was not sure it would work.

Thanks Rick.  I'll check out that other web site and see if they have any suggestions to see if this will work.
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Neonkiss
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« Reply #4 on: July 07, 2009, 11:58:49 PM »

correct, you are connecting a high current/low impedance output and with a low current/high impedance input, you can blow your amp, so disconnect it.  Ideally you want to tap into the preamp stage.  You might want to ask advice from this place:

http://www.vendoramusements.com/bbs/nph-YaBB.pl?board=jukebox/0



Thanks for the link Rick.
I tried to register and log in to post my question but I could not.
I don't know if their site is down or what. Just kept getting some SMPT error message and when you try to log in or re-register it says  your pre-registered?
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« Reply #5 on: July 08, 2009, 02:49:55 PM »

I did not try to login, I just read some messages.
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« Reply #6 on: July 09, 2009, 04:54:33 AM »

You might be able to find an adapter at a car audio place that will convert the separate outputs into RCA level outputs.

Try that. If the audio is too low then modify the input on the wireless speaker to remove some resistors and allow for more signal to come in.
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« Reply #7 on: July 09, 2009, 05:31:20 AM »

Is there a specification in the piece of paper that came with the wireless speaker? Specifically, its input sensitivity? This may be specified in dB, but it will tell you what voltage level you need to drive the thing. The reference level, 0dB, is defined as 1 milliwatt into 600 ohms, which works out at 0.775 volts RMS.

The formula linking watts and speakers with voltage is, (watts) times (speaker ohms) = (voltage) squared. For example, one watt into 4 ohms takes 2 volts, 4 watts into 4 ohms takes 4 volts. If your transmitter was 0dB sensitivity and connected across the 4 ohm speaker, it would be maxed out at 0.15 watts, well before the windows started to shake.

The ideal place to pick up the signal is at the preamp output, but I can't see that on your diagrams. Often it's a separate module, but perhaps not in this case, or the connections would be shown. I notice you appear to have a modern DC volume control, so there's no signal to be had there.
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« Reply #8 on: September 10, 2009, 12:55:19 AM »

Hi, saw your post and might have some info for you. I have Seeburg and NSM boxes myself. If I have a problem with sound systems or amps I call Bill Becker at Juke box Saturday Night. Bill has been around doing repairs on juke box amps for over 40 years and is located in Cochran, Ga. Bill is known all over the U.S. for his juke box repairs. He takes phone calls for repairs or info without a problem. His phone number is 478-934-2244. Give him a try..Mike.
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Neonkiss
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« Reply #9 on: September 10, 2009, 09:00:57 AM »

Thanks Mike,
I forgot about Bill. I have talked with him when I was rebuilding my amp in a AMI C

How is your NSM?
I had one that I was getting rid of, so I listed it on ebay with an opening bid of $1.00
7 days later it sold..............   For $1.00 bawling
At least the guy brought cash so I didn't have to pay any paypal fees  frying pan
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« Reply #10 on: September 11, 2009, 12:13:17 AM »

Hi, back again. When asked about the NSM machine I just love it. I won the machine on flea-bay for $450.00 and it came with remote and a set of high dollar speakers. I'm well pleased with the NSM FIRE BIRD cdm-3. The only thing I didn't care for was the close to 4 hour drive to pick it up near St. Louis, Mo.  Having the machine for almost 2 years I have collected enough parts to build about three machines. I got the parts cheap from vendors in LA, Ohio and east coast. They were updating their machines to internet boxes and gave me super deals. The only problem with the NSM machine is the programing of it. I have all the manuals for it including the hard to get service tech ones. The manuals are a twist of German/American. Also have two Seeburg SS-160 machines and a ton of good Seeburg parts. Sold all the wall boxes and stepper units for numerous Seeburgs, they went quick. Back in the mid seventies I hooked up with a guy that had a large juke box route in northwest Indiana. At this time I started putting out many pinball machines. As the old time vendors would say not pinball machines but pin games. Oh well enough of the past, If I can help in any way drop me line, thanks Mike.
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2xpy_archer
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« Reply #11 on: March 03, 2012, 01:38:14 PM »

Old post I know but the cd100 has external speaker outputs built in that you can vary the wattage with.
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Ken Layton
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« Reply #12 on: March 04, 2012, 04:27:08 AM »

Rowe makes an amplifier accessory board that provides tons of different access points to and from the amplifier plus before and after the jukebox volume control. This accessory board plugs right into the jukebox amplifier and it has a bunch of RCA jacks on it.

Here is the manual for the kit so you can see what it does:

http://arcarc.xmission.com/PDF_Jukebox/Rowe_AMI/Rowe_Amplifier_Accessory_Board_Kit_26694703_%28Rev_3-93%29.pdf
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