PE Plus Poker problems

[stayouttadabunker]

Gee...I wish we could see what you're talking about really...
Pictures would help a lot!

Previous DBV settings are saved in the CMOS chip I believe...
Once you change games...I think it all gets wiped out.
It's always good to keep a complete set of SET and clear chips for the future.

[jay]

If you change out the Program/data chip on the PE+ you will need to run the Set chip through the machine to re-enable the DBV. Best to purchase both a SET & Clear chip.

Eventually your battery will run low on the PE+ machine, at that point you will need to solder a new one on. This is most likely when you will require the Clear chip.

[knagl]

Once you do a game change (which you've done by installing the new board with a different game), you need the set chip to re-enable the validator.

[Kid Smack]

Ok, thanks. I'll tell my buddy to order a set.

[Kid Smack]

Well, the source of the problem with this machine has been found. The set and clear chips came in today. I went over and swapped all the chips from the original board so he had the five game setup rather than the single game that came with the new board he bought. (o broken legs.) Then I used the set chip to enable the bill validator. Everything was working perfect. Then...I don't kinow if anyone else here has any experience with the product offered in this post: http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=777.0 but our experience was not good. It's supposed to replace the hopper with a ticket printer. He had been getting a lot of hopper jams and decided to get one to remedy the problem. After I got it up and running tonight, I asked him if he wanted me to put it in and said I might as well since it's now working. Well as soon as I put in the printer system, the machine locked up. Nothing worked, including the test and jacpot switch. I checked the fuses and the middle one was burnt in half. So hoping that was the reason the test switch wasn't working I put in a new fuse and it still didn't work. After looking around a bit, I checked the fuse and it had blown again. Now as soon as I put in a fuse, it burns it up. Any ideas? I didn't have time to go through the whole machine yet. I'm guessing it may have melted a wire somewhere and that it's the reason the fuse blows right away. The hopper is back in and the machine powers up, but it only takes a couple seconds to melt down a slow blow fuse. Absolutely disgusting. 

[knagl]

We can try and find a schematic to try and determine what the middle fuse is connected to (I sure don't know off the top of my head -- perhaps someone else does?).  Is this a PE+ upright, slant top, or bartop drop-in?

[Kid Smack]

It's a PE+ slant top. When I put in a new fuse, the tower light lights up for the second or so it takes to blow the fuse. Then it's out again.

[stayouttadabunker]

PLEASE take out those slow blow fuses!!!!
Use fast blow fuses in your slot machine....

slow blow fuses really means your burning something else up BEFORE the fuse blows...
that's a terrible idea isn't it?
I'd much rather blow a .50 cent fast blow fuse than my machine!!!

Did any instructions come with that hopper/bypass kit?
Maybe there's something that needs to be done before attempting to install those?

If not, check the wire harness going up to the candle...
maybe a positive wire is cutting against some metal of the cabinet body or top box metal.

[Kid Smack]

I was thinking it may need a setting change myself before the bypass is put in, but there wasn't anything in the instructions about it.  Incidentally, the bypass kit is called an HCU (whatever that stands for.) As far as instructions, there wasn't much. Plug into hopper connector, plug in accessory power outlet. That's pretty much all there is to it other than a ground wire with an alligator clip on it. I'll have to get back over there and start dismantling it to find the problem. Good point about the fuses. I was just replacing them with what was previously in the machine. There were 4 in the pack I bought. Now there's 0.

[Jim]

Middle Fuse?????   they should be labeled   F-1=5 amp 24 vac ckts.,  F-2= 5amp 7vac ckts., F-3= 6 amp 115vac.

Since you plugged this device into the service outlet, perhaps the ceramic housing broke and is shorting to the frame??

Jim   

[Kid Smack]

Sorry I didn't specify. The middle fuse is the 5 amp 7 vac. I was too disgusted to go through the whole machine after it happened knowing how long it might take to find the short. I'll be heading over there this week to check it all out.

[Jim]

the 7vac comes off the fuse and goes to 2 places,   the candle and to J-11 of the mother board   you could disconnect  them both and see if the fuse doesn't blow, if it does not then plug one in at a time and see which one causes the fuse to blow. the candle would be easy to determine the fault, the motherboard not so easy. 

Jim   

[Jim]

the 7vac is used to generate the +vb, which in turn is used to power the hopper optics, that device that you plugged into the hopper plug could have fried the +vb,in turn blowing the fuse.

On the board I would check CR25(in4002) or D3(12volt Zenier diode)I'll bet one of them is toast!!

Jim

[Kid Smack]

Update..O.k. thanks again for the help everyone.

Jim, thanks. CR25 was literally cracked down the middle. Had to look close to see it being so small but still easy enough to see. According to the manual it's a 1M5401 rectifier. It seems to me this particular # isn't readily available. I found a 1N5401 rec at Future Electronics and while it mentions the 1M5401, it doesn't necessarily state that it's a replacement for it although it seems to have similar properties. I got the impression that you've replaced this before. What part # did you use, or just a quick link to it?

My buddy had already ordered another MPU before I got a chance to check out the board. I put it in and everything worked fine again except for the DBV even AFTER I had enabled it with the set chip. The bills would go in, it would pause, then spit them out. The chip set that was installed on the new board was a double double bonus poker (X0002068). There were a lot of different settings in the self test menus that I was unfamiliar with. In particular, one page had (and I'm trying to remember my best here) about 6 lines with a choice of no tilt, soft tilt, or hard tilt, and then a line with "number of bill rejects" that went from 0-99. After getting frustrated with trying multiple settings and opening a closing the door 100 times to no avail, I finally just swapped out all the chips again to his original 5 game chip set and got everything working 100% (as this chip set didn't have the extra pages of setup screens)

Excellent, and thank you all. For future reference, if anybody has any ideas on the setup for the Double Double or a link to it I'd appreciate it. He now has 2 extra nonworking MPU's, but if I can get that rectifier replaced he can sell one and keep the other for backup. On a side note, he tried contacting the guy who sold him the HCU-200 (the part that blew the boards) and hasn't had his calls or emails returned. I checked out the website and it says the HCU-100 is the one for the PE+ machines and NOT the HCU-200, but the 100 has the wrong plug for the hopper. My buddy talked to the guy on the phone before he bought it and he assured him that the 200 (with the correct plug) would work for him. So I guess you can take that for what it's worth.

While the machine itself is working, apparently the hopper is still jamming up. He ordered a new knife, which came in the mail today, and I'm guessing it's the nylon type since the guy he bought the boards from sent it to him free of charge or shipping for doing business with him. Do the nylon knives really last long? At least a few years would be nice. I haven't put it in yet.

There's really NO way to trick this machine into hand paying ALL cashouts?

[Kid Smack]

I went to put in the new hopper knife yesterday and after looking at the hopper I found what was causing the repeated coin jams. For some odd reason, as the coins exited the escalator, they were also turning the shoulder screw that holds the rotary flag counter in position. This in turn was somehow pinching the rotary flag counter tight. So after each coin went through, it just got tighter and tighter until it wouldn't spin at all, forcing the hopper to jam. Since the shoulder screw can only go in so far, I have no idea why this was happening. And of course, when I tried to properly secure it, the screw snapped off inside the escalator, which I easily got out with a dremmel drill bit. But now I have to find a new shoulder screw that will fit. Part #419-031-00 shoulder screw, 6-32 x 9/16 x .156

[Jim]

I have 4 super boards and 2 regular pe+ boards and they all have 1N4002 diodes for CR25.  My book , on page B1-9 shows CR25 to be a 1N4002,  published 6/6/94. 

As for the problem with the rotary flag getting tight as the coins are dispensed, I think some washer or spacer is missing, I would check this out , that flag should offer very little resistance to the coin as it is being pushed out.

Jim

check with Jim at blueridge slots, I'm sure he has a escalator tower that works and it is easy to swap

[Kid Smack]

Thanks again Jim. I was going by what I found in the PE+ Slant Top Series Field Service Manual I downloaded from here. (It was in the "Submit a New File" section, but doesn't seem to be there anymore. 821-065-00_Rev._A-page 209, First Printing June 18, 1991.) It says it's a 3A 100V. Either way, if that's what you have in your boards and it works, it's good enough for me. They probably switched it over the years.

As far as the flag and shoulder screw go, I searched for hours last night and couldn't find one with the "exact" same dimensions as listed in the manual for the shoulder screw, soooo...
Let's just say 1 brass wood screw + 1 home-made CNC machine = 1 Part #419-031-00 shoulder screw. I'll try it out tomorrow and hopefully it will be good to go for now. All the parts shown in the manual are here. I'll let my buddy know about Blueridge, he'll probably order one.

By the way, you guys all rock for helping us out with this. Can anyone recommend a good slot tech school? (Preferably one in AZ or NV, where it's warm.)

Here's my CNC.

[Buzz]

I just took a look at three different hoppers and all have a nut on the screw If you think about it install the screw snug and with a nut on the other end tight it can not turn. I would also think you can get by with a regular screw until you find the right one.

[Kid Smack]

There isn't a nut listed or that I can see in the manual, but when I pulled it off there was definitely a "clean" hex shaped spot where a nut was at one time, but was no longer there. I'll see if I have one that will fit. (Though with my machining skills it may not be needed.)