PE+ Optics

[theDotster]

Hi,

Further to this post: http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=6929.msg61780#msg61780

Coin Compariter damper missing the weight:
I turned the screw on the compariter all the way anticlockwise and this compariter works the S+ fine. Thanks for the advise.

However, I've still got a problem with the optics in the PE+, well, I don't think it's the optics but some wiring.

I've changed the coin comparitor with a known good one and no change, still doesn't work.

So, I then changed the bracket with the optics on a for one that I know works and still doesn't work.

When I looked at the Input screen, I'm getting a 1 next to optic 1 and 3 but a zero for optic 2, I get this irrespective of what mech or optics I have installed in the machine.

I did at one point get this working a few days ago and I remember seeing 1's next to all three optics. I can't see a trapped/pinched wire. What is the best way to trace these wires to find a break in the chain?

Thanks for reading this far and for any help you can give me.

Paul

[Foster]

Look for the S+/PE+ electronic repair manual in the submit a new file section.

I would check the wiring in the coin comp/optic/diverter harness
then the door working back to the motherboard.

My S+ sound would drop out, I wiggled and disconnected/re-connected connectors and that solved the issue.

[theDotster]

Thanks Foster.

Page 91 seems to be what I need.

[theDotster]

OK, I've traced it to a broken wire on the molex going into where the PCB tray slides in.

Question now is how to I reattach it to the pin in the molex? Can anyone explain how this is done please?

I hope someone can help.

Paul

[stayouttadabunker]

There are so many different kinks of molex's....
I think around 2,000 DIFFERENT variations!!!!
If you can post up the a good high resolution photo of
the very front and sides of this molex,
I can show you exactly how to extract the receptor pin
without destroying the molex case or the pin itself!

[theDotster]

Sorry, pics here and next post, thanks

[theDotster]

.

[stayouttadabunker]

Okay,
That will be easy but I hope you have a good desk lamp
with a magnifying glass because in order to get that pin out, this is what you have to do.

Here's a photo of some various molex connectors.
They all have male pins somewhat similar to yours.
I have the luxury of working on it on my desk with a very good magnifying lamp.
That's a cheap one in the second picture but it works very well!
Any photos I'm laying down ahead can be enlarged by clicking on the photos!>>>

[stayouttadabunker]

Alright, if you've pulled out your harness...I don't think
you want to try this with the harness in your machine.
You can but read all this first before you decide what to do!
Lay your molex on it's back, grab the molex with one hand and
with the other hand, squeeze the tabs (There are 2 tabs-  one on each side)
towards the pin's center with a small screwdriver.
It's okay if you bend the tab into the body of the pin too!
It will come out much easier!>>>

[stayouttadabunker]

Once you've bent the tabs in to the pinbody, push down on the top
of the pinhead with your screwdriver until it comes right out of the molex!
If it doesn't want to move, you need to push the tabs in
some more so they clear the lip they overlap onto.>>>

[stayouttadabunker]

There's all kinds of ways to take pins out of molexes.
I use brass model airplane tubes of various sizes, tiny little jeweler's screwdrivers,
and the occasionally actual pin extractor tool...lol
The extractor tools are very expensive but work extremely well.

Second photo is a brass modeler's tube that fits perfectly over certain pins.
They bend the tabs against the pin body and work like this.>>>

[stayouttadabunker]

See how the brass tube fits nice over the pin and comes to rest on top of the tabs?
That the tabs you need to press against the pinbody with the tube!

The second photo is the tube squashing the tabs !>>>

[stayouttadabunker]

It's Outta there!

Second photo is of my expensive pin extraction tool made by AMP and
can be picked up at various suppliers such as mouser.com....I warn you - they're NOT cheap!
Basically, you slip them over the pin and....>>>

[stayouttadabunker]

Press down on the plunger and the pins pop right out!
I wish I had every size they made....lol

The second photo are cheap plastic pin extractors....
don't waste your money on these.
They are very brittle and crack up...pure junk!!!!>>>

[stayouttadabunker]

Why? Because the plastic is way too thin to have any strength to squeeze the tabs.
Basically they go down into the hole past the pins and
you're supposed to push the pin right out...lol...works maybe 2 out of 10 trys!!!.
By the time you get one out - you could have gotten 10 pins out
in the same amount of time with a tiny screwdriver.

The second photo shows me trying to use these suckers!!! lol
Why I keep them around I don't know...they simply don't work!!!>>>.

[stayouttadabunker]

Now, here's a freshly extracted pin...
if you ever want to use it again, you need to bend the tabs back out!

So, in the second photo - you gotta use a sharp exacto modeler's knife
to get under the tabs and bend them back out just a touch!>>>

[stayouttadabunker]

There! The pin Tabs are back to normal!
They're ready to stick back into a molex housing anyday!

Now, cut off the excess wire from your pin...
we're going to fix this puppy!>>>

[stayouttadabunker]

Use a brass tube as a pin holder.
what we're going to attempt to do is spread your wings and fly!
Ok, ok...spread the tabs holding the plastic wire cover.

The second photo is me spreading open the wire cover tabs on the pin.
This takes strong hands and patience....
Just stick an awl into the end and push the tab down to the side...
do both tabs.>>>

[stayouttadabunker]

Now, once you bent the tabs open, with a small screwdriver,
work the plastic covering off the wire strands.

In the second pic, this is the hardest part....work the awl into the wire strands.
It should begin to spread the crimped metal tabs...
You need to apply a lot of controlled pressure here
or the awl can slip and stab yourself!
I've done it many times...the first time you do it...it's scary! lol
Your heart starts racing and you wondering why in the world
didn't I just order some new pins from mouser!
I never do this hardly anymore (stabbing myself.... )
I order pins all the time now...lol>>>

[stayouttadabunker]

Now, Strip your broken orange wire about
 a 1/4" of an inch or half a centimeter.

In the second picture, place your newly
stripped wire into the refurbished pin.>>>

[stayouttadabunker]

With a good hand crimper or a decent pair of needle nose pliers,
crimp the bare strands wire tabs first.

Now, crimp the back tabs onto the black plastic wire cover...
in your case, the orange wire cover!>>>

[stayouttadabunker]

You're almost done!
Push your pin back into the molex housing until you can't push anymore or
until you hear the tabs "click" in the CORRECT HOLE!
If not, you'll have to pull it all back out again.!!!
Re connect your two molex connectors and you should be go to go!
Like I said, this is hard to do with the harness still in the machine
unless you have the correct sized AMP pin extraction tool.
It's much easier to do this kind of work on your benchtop with the proper tools.

I've seen people try to solder the wire back onto the pin while
the PIN WAS STILL IN THE PLASTIC MOLEX!  
Of course the molex will melt!!! It takes 700 degrees minium to solder...
plastic molex's look like sh#@%--! after that's done and it does not last long.
Plus they come off and ground out against something in the machine and short out everything!
Do it right and it'll treat you right!
Good luck!
If you need any help.... let us know! >>>

[reho33]

Excellent, K++ Stout. Very Well Done!

[stayouttadabunker]

Thank you very much reho! 

[theDotster]

Excellent, K++ Stout. Very Well Done!

I agree. Very many thanks for all your effort, I couldn't have asked for more.

I can see me stabbing myself at least twice on this, I'll post pics of the injuries when I'm done :-)

Thanks again.

Paul