IGT S+ - 6AMP FUSE BLOWN - NOW NO GAME?

[FOXSSLOTS1]

In the process of converting an S+ - I was having problems getting the BV to work - so I decided to try a different board (did not check it first) and it blew the 6amp fuse - now no matter what board I try - no display at all - tower light top flashes slow - bottom flashes fast - bv cycles - thats it - the power harness that goes from the Power Supply to the mpu is okay.  Did I fry the MPU or ?   CPUs are good in other games.   

[stayouttadabunker]

I'd swap in a known good display B.
Maybe only the display blew?
Jiggle the power harness going to the motherboard...pins might be oxidized.
I had one that only worked when the molex connector was halfway pulled up and slanted to the right.
What I did was get a new connection contact on the pins and the display lit right up!
The receptor pins in the molex may be shot now giving you headaches.

[Jim]

Barry    if the game works ok, but no displays, check the mother board connections, there is a six pin connector( I think itis from the meters) if that is put in the wrong connector it take down the strobe signal and no displays.

Jim

on the board that blew the fuse,check the diode that makes the +vb its probably shorted. I forget the CR # . I'll let you know later.

CR2 and D2

[stayouttadabunker]

That little black 6-pin molex connector fits in two spots on the motherboard...
Was always a bad design...

The 6-pin black molex comes from the hopper harness and that should be put in
all the way to the back ( Onto the J13 header) next to the longer connector on
the furthest right-hand side of the motherboard...

The 6-pin black molex that comes from the meters/counters are mostly brown wires with different colored stripes.
That one goes onto the J6 header at the front left.

[FOXSSLOTS1]

 I guess I wasn't concise - the reels do not spin - therefore no game - the display is dead - display worked PRIOR to the fuse issue with the bad board (cpu had a trace that was soldered - I did not test - that is until now - this board blew the fuse).  So the display board could have blown - will try another one - will try another mother board as well - the connections going to the mother board look okay - Like I said - I checked the main power cord from the power supply to the mpu (the one with the white molex - it is fine).  I feel I either fried the mpu or the power supply? 

[ashyron]

In the process of converting an S+ - I was having problems getting the BV to work - so I decided to try a different board (did not check it first) and it blew the 6amp fuse - now no matter what board I try - no display at all - tower light top flashes slow - bottom flashes fast - bv cycles - thats it - the power harness that goes from the Power Supply to the mpu is okay.  Did I fry the MPU or ?   CPUs are good in other games.    

This sounds like the exact problem I had with one of our games when I put in Triple Diamond.  I thought I blew up the game.  I took a board out and put it in a different machine and ran across the same problem.  So there's two games down, so I thought.  A friend of mine told me what to do to fix the problem and I haven't had a problem yet.  

Unless you replaced the power harness with a new one, I would take off the power harness and sand down the 6 prongs inside the machine it connects to and also replace or repair the wire harness.  I choose repair.  It took me about 10 minutes to pull each one of the wires out of the molex connector (one at a time of course), sand them down, stretch them back out and put them all back in.  

I haven't had a problem since.  Those power harnesses cause more problems than one might think.  

[knagl]

I feel I either fried the mpu or the power supply?

If it's one of those two, I'd lean towards the MPU before the power supply.

Are the reels stiff with the power on?  Is the denomination lamp lit up?

[FOXSSLOTS1]

its not the power harness as I swapped that first.  it has to be the mpu for the power supply - so I will take a mpu out of another game and try that.  thanks.

[ashyron]

its not the power harness as I swapped that first.  it has to be the mpu for the power supply - so I will take a mpu out of another game and try that.  thanks.

All that typing and it's not the harness??

 

I tried

[stayouttadabunker]

hey B.
 Are the reels "stiff" when you power up the machine?
knagl's post is important!

[FOXSSLOTS1]

they didn't move if thats what you mean (that is jump when first powered up).   I didn't check to see if they were energized.   I kind of feel it is the mpu as the machine would not clear properly nor set - the meter was acting up BEFORE  I  blew the fuse.   

[stayouttadabunker]

At this point, about the best thing you can do for that board is try a clear chip...
If that doesn't go into the clearing sequences and get your display going, then it's either your display is bad or the MPU board.
I'd try the problem display in a known good machine and
a known good MPU in the problem machine.

[coorslight115]

Try to turn the reels by hand, do they turn easy or are they notchy and stiff? If you changed the chips on the MPU during this change you may have run into a problem I had. The little metal contacts in the chip socket can break off and stay under the socket and short out the traces or just not make contact. Worth a look

[FOXSSLOTS1]

board has the clear chip in it (it is a good clear chip) - will try swapping out the mpu - tried good cpus - connections are good - the bad board blew something beside the 6amp fuse. 

[Foster]

I wonder if the mpu blew the small transformer on the MPU tray?

[stayouttadabunker]

I wonder if the mpu blew the small transformer on the MPU tray?

The best way to check that is to swap an MPU board with THAT tray!

[FOXSSLOTS1]

well - the problem is the meter board is NG   since I did have an issue with the board once - I swapped it out and voila - the new meter works.  still cannot get the BV to accept even after running the set - different boards etc.  will work on that one later.   My visual check of the meter board showed no apparent damage - check the one cap on the board and it tested okay - so I am assuming 1 of the ICs - easier to replace the unit that mess with the board at this point.  Anyone have a meter panel for sale?