How to permanently bypass S2000 door optics

[CaptainHappy]

I decided to try bipassing my optics and it works great and i found there is actually a plug behind reel 1 that goes to the optic so u dont need to run a wire threw your door. i also noticed if u just take a peice of wire and tuch it to the copper of each optic it connects

If possible can you post a picture of this plug that you found with any details about exact location, marking, etc. It would be nice to document that here for folks who try this in the future...

Thanks and   Karma (actually your first) for sharing what you found.

CaptainHappy

[Foster]

It is a 2 pin male and female pair Molex Mini-Fit Jr near the rear of reel 1
Red with white tracer and green wires.

You will connect to the female Mini-Fit Jr
You use the red wire green at that connector is unused for the bypass.

It is near the 2 pin black Molex SL 0.100 male and female connector that has black with yellow tracer and yellow with black tracer (they come from the BV bezel board harness)

IF you follow the wires coming from the door optics as they go along the left side of the machine you can find it very easily.
I have the harness coming from the door disconnected and used a old door optic harness from the vision door harness to make the connection to the available pole of the cherry switch.

For the cabinet side I also had a spare connector that would connect to the machine harness at the optic without modification.
Connect to the green wire, purple wire is unused for the bypass.

Top picture is the door optic connection and door optic connector from door.
it is disconnected since I have the bypass in place.
Bottom picture is the cabinet optic connection with a connector wired to the switch
The Cabinet optic is disconnected since the bypass is in place.

Is this enough documenation for you Captain Happy?

[CaptainHappy]

Foster, for adding so much detail. That should help folks that want to do this mod.

Since I am so dense, that may not be enough info for me.... and since you are a "travelling tech" maybe you need to come mod all of my machines!
 

CH

[reho33]

I figured that out about 2 weeks ago while finishing up my friends S2000. I switched the "hot" side of the signal line and not the "ground". I had lots of weird problems because of switching out the "ground" side. I did not know that on the S2000 you just needed to switch the 1 wire. I think on the S+ it has to be the 2 wires and hot=hot and ground=ground. On the S2000 it is "crossed, hot=ground and ground=hot. On the machines where the door is true and the optices work, I left it alone. On others I did the mod, no problems.

[Foster]

The S+ is only one wire as well
since the optics are interchangeable between the S+ and S2000 it is the pointed side of the connectors on the S+ and S2000 that you are connecting.
On the S+ you must unplug the optics or it wont work for some reason. S2000 does not matter.
What you are connecting TTL/CMOS output to a TTL/CMOS input

[brianfink]

i forgot to add that you have to have the belly door switch open in order to be able to jump the optics by touching a wire to the metal part of the optics

[stayouttadabunker]

i forgot to add that you have to have the belly door switch open in order to be able to jump the optics by touching a wire to the metal part of the optics

I don't why you need to do this because my belly door switch is wired permanently "closed" together
and the optical bypass works well utilizing a door's cherry switch?  

[brianfink]

you dont need to but if u have optics and dont want to bypass them u can still work with your machine with the door open without spliceing anything sorry i guess i should have started a new post how to temporarily bypass optics

[coorslight115]

K+ Foster....Cool stuff!

[swantzilla]

okay.
This is how you wire up an S2000 and eliminate the door optics forever.
The green and black wires on the door optic harness needs to be lengthened to
come back toward the hinges, under the reel tray over to
the 3-way cherry switch that's located on top of the DBV.

1). Once you do that, splice the green wire from the door
     to the purple wire on the cabinet side optic harness.

2). Attach a tab on the red wire from the door harness to the 3rd tab on the cherry switch.

3). Finally, attach a tab onto the green wire from the cabinet-side optic harness
     and put that on the left-most tab position on the cherry switch.

You will notice the cabinet light also works off of the cherry switch but occupies the 4th & 6th right-most tabs.
Here's a real terrible drawing but you get the idea.
Click on my drawing to enlarge it.
Print it out and take it over to your machine when you want to work on it!!>>>

My cherry switch uses the first 2 connections not the first and third for the light as depicted in the drawing.

[Foster]

The Cherry switch is a Double Pole Double Throw (DPDT) switch.
The switch is labeled for the neutral position (not pushed in or pulled out - would simulate door closed)
The light uses the common and the Normally Closed connections - light comes on when door is open
Door optic bypass uses the common and Normally Open connections - you can pull the switch out to simulate door closed

Light wired to 1 and 2, or 5 and 6
Door optic wired to 1 and 3, or 4 and 6
That is the way I did my switch

[stayouttadabunker]

Good catch swantzilla!
hanks for correcting the drawing of the cherry switch.   

[Buzz]

This is a piss poor drawing but it works.

[swantzilla]

The switch has 2 sets of COM, NC NO connections. The cherry switch for the light is connected to COM and NC. Your picture shows the light connected to the NC and NO connections and the optics conneted to the COM and NO connections. I see your poor drawing and raise it with one of my own.

[stayouttadabunker]

Basically, the cabinet light is not that important but it does look funny if it's on when the door is closed! 
I had my work light connected right but my drawing for that was like Buzz's ...
Without actually thinking about it too much - I must of assumed that it was connected
the same as the optics side of the cherry switch.

Explains how things like the space shuttle blows up...

[Buzz]

Bunker  He's right my drawing is wrong as for as the work light.  You can see I spent a tremendous amount of time on it. I think it should rate right up there in the Rembrant class, don't you. I know it's not a      van Gogh, I'm short one finger but I still have both ears.

I recall the original post with you and Foster telling us how to bypass the optics and I got so confussed it took me hours to figure out what the hell you two were doing. Forster is one sharp fellow, but to me he gives out to much information, my old brain has to work to hard.

The way I will word the bypass is. Hook a wire directly from the red/white wire at the door optic to the green wire at the cabinet optic, cut that wire and install a cherry switch at the cut. I can add if you follow the wire harness from the door optic to a area behind and sometimes right below number one reel you will fine a two wire plug, that's where I make the door optic connection. ( it's still red/white wire) Looks neater and saves running the wire along the button wires.

[stayouttadabunker]

It's always been confusing because IGT uses the white and black wires for the door emitter/cabinet receiver optics -
those colors match NOTHING else on the harness going out to them!!!
The only reason IGT used white and black was so the installers at the factory wouldn't mix up emitter and receiver optics.

I go by the pointy side of the 2-pin Molex connector - which is pin #1.

[brianfink]

I have rewired many machines now using the cherry switch with no problems untill recently. I had a machine that started giving me weard errors it would go to accounting menu all by it's self wile in the middle of a game the key switch quit working and was getting a small shock when you tuch the frame. I was tracing the wires from the key switch and realized they use the same plug as the optic at the motherboard. So I unpluged the service light and the problem seemed to go away. so somehow it seems the cherry switch was leaking voltage from the service light into the optic circuit. So I unplugged all my service lights.
Ok so it wasn't actually the service light when I was messing around tracing the wires I just moved them enouf to temporarily stop it from shorting out   

[Foster]

The Service Light is powered by 5V/12-13V Supply in the AC Distribution Center, the 5V is used for the Comm Board there.

1 you could have a power supply leaking 120VAC into your service light circuit,
   I have never felt a shock from the 12V or 13V in the machine
     Machine supply provides 13V and 25V, the small supply mounted on the left end of AC Distribution Box provides 5V and 12V
     5V goes to the Comm board for the TTL and CMOS logic.
2 The Cherry switch in that machine is dirty or something has broken in it, I would replace it with a spare one if you can
    Depending where the machine was installed originally you might have one mounted so is activated by the cash can, if so it was wired to a external security system.
 

[OldReno]

You guys rock.
Thanks for a very entertaining and educational thread!!!
Good work and kudos to all.

[jbshocks]

Have you guys considered making this a sticky?

[stayouttadabunker]

Have you guys considered making this a sticky?

uh...it's been a sticky since July 13th/ 2010...

[jbshocks]

Have you guys considered making this a sticky?

uh...it's been a sticky since July 13th/ 2010...

oops,  confused with s+ section

[kenokarz]

Just did the s2000 optics bypass thanks to all on this one, I will never go back to optics on these machines 

[Buzz]

Just did the s2000 optics bypass thanks to all on this one, I will never go back to optics on these machines 

Damn  Dave it don't take you all day to herd cows 3 hours does it !!!!