IGT ?????????

[straycat]

Just posted my intro, now it's public knowledge that I know nothing about my newly acquired IGT so some questions are in order;
What do I have? This info on side cabinet;
Model #ber B5027CI ?
Description S-S LCT
Build date 6/91
Here's what I have done so far;
plugged it into the wall, that was easy!
Lights up but no other action.
Filled coin bucket with quarters, that was spendy!
Put a quarter in the coin validator and hooked spring to back of said part as it was just floating around the bottom of the mach.
Found a blown fuse, middle one, made no diff.
Cleaned and inspected everything, no smoking gun found.
Can't pull handle unless I manualy lift solenoid.
OK, hit me with all your knowledge!
Here's some pic's of the culprit .....................................

[straycat]

More pics.................................................

[straycat]

And the last...............................................

[FORDSBS]

On the windows on right. Are there any numbers in there?

[StatFreak]

Hi straycat and welcome to Newlifegames.

As everyone mentioned in the Welcome Wagon thread, you have an early, pre-dbv model S+.

One thing I noticed is that the white seven on the first reel looks a bit out of place and you have power to the machine. So my first question is, do the reels stiffen up when you turn on the power? If so, do they execute their maiden spin when the machine self-tests on power up?

If the reels are working, my next suggestion would be to open the door and press the small white test button on the coin optics (located below the comparitor where you put your sample coin). If the optic board is working, this should put credits on the machine that you should be able to play with the door open.

Third, it looks like there might be a "0" in the coins played, but it's hard to tell in the photo. If so, that means that you probably don't have any error codes, but it also means that the door is seen as open. (You might get error codes once the door is properly closed) If you have a "0" and you completely close and latch the door, does it go away?

<ADD> Sorry Ford, I was typing while you were posting.

Stat

[Tilt]

Check the power connector on the motherboard, that's the one that stays in the machine that the MPU board plugs into.  These power connectors fail over time and cause problems.  It's located in the vicinity of the power transformer.  See this thread for what a burnt one looks like.

http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=9367.0

[straycat]

On the windows on right. Are there any numbers in there? ........................   No!

Do the reels stiffen up when you turn on the power? If so, do they execute their maiden spin when the machine self-tests on power up? ......................................... No again!

If the reels are working, my next suggestion would be to open the door and press the small white test button on the coin optics (located below the comparitor where you put your sample coin). If the optic board is working, this should put credits on the machine that you should be able to play with the door open. ............ Reels not working, looked but can't find the white test button. There is a white micro button down the dide where the mother board slips into?

Third, it looks like there might be a "0" in the coins played, but it's hard to tell in the photo. If so, that means that you probably don't have any error codes, but it also means that the door is seen as open. (You might get error codes once the door is properly closed) If you have a "0" and you completely close and latch the door, does it go away? ....................... No "0" in coins played.

Check the power connector on the motherboard, that's the one that stays in the machine that the MPU board plugs into.  These power connectors fail over time and cause problems.  It's located in the vicinity of the power transformer.  See this thread for what a burnt one looks like.    Looks good in that area!

Basically it looks like I have Florecent lights only lit up, nothing else.

[FORDSBS]

Are the buttons lit?

[straycat]

Are the buttons lit?
Nope!

[FORDSBS]

If I were you I'd turn machine off then go over ALL connectors & make sure they are making connection.
Unplug & plug in again.

[straycat]

I am testing with door open but can see that there is an optic on the door and the cabinet, should I bypass them some how? Is there a test mode? Can I test with door open? Thanks again!

[FORDSBS]

I'll let someone who has experience on S+ chime in.
it's been to long since I worked on one of them. I don't want to give you wrong advice.
Ford

[Tilt]

Did the fuse you replaced blow again?  The door optics don't matter for now since your MPU board doesn't appear to be getting power.  There are self tests, but the MPU board needs to boot up to run them and yours isn't doing that at this point.  I recommend re-checking the fuse, and checking/re-seating the connectors as Ford suggested.

[straycat]

Don't leave now Ford were just getting started!
OK, pulled and plugged back in everything that would, still just fluorescents.
I did finally find the white button on the coin verifier. Still nothing ........................
Checked fuses again, look & check good........................
Believe me the inside of this thing looks brand new, I know that means nothing though!

[FORDSBS]

Did you check the plug on power supply. It is your 4Th pic. Lower left on pic.

[straycat]

Missed that one Ford, just checked and all is good!

[straycat]

This mach. has a round key lock on the outside of cabinet that I do not have a key for, so I took the 2 wires off the back of it and "joined"  them with a spaded auto fuse for a bypass. Is this acceptable for now just testing?

[FORDSBS]

That is the switch for resetting the machine. You don't want to connect them. That is one that you just turn to make a quick connect on & off.

[Tilt]

Grab a multimeter and check for the AC inputs to the motherboard.  The connector pinout and voltages you need to check are designated by the red box on the schematic.

That's the jackpot reset switch wires.  They aren't needed for now and are normally open vs closed as you have them now.  I'd put them back and if you need to use it, just remove one wire from the terminal and touch it to the other.  You can get a key for it, they're the same standard key on most machines.

[straycat]

Ford, easy fix, I will take care of that ASP. Thanks!
Tilt, have my meter in hand is this the red box you were referring to, can you walk me threw the testing of the input output? Thanks

[straycat]

Tilt, how stupid of me I see now that you posted a schematic and I just looked it over. Thanks a bunch will be back with more info from that!

[coorslight115]

Sorry pic will not upload

[straycat]

Not working for me coors ............................................... says I am not allowed there!
No problem thanks for trying!

[coorslight115]

120 volts ac on these two wires

[StatFreak]

Check the power connector on the motherboard, that's the one that stays in the machine that the MPU board plugs into.  These power connectors fail over time and cause problems.  It's located in the vicinity of the power transformer.  See this thread for what a burnt one looks like.

http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=9367.0

Did you double check this connector? This fault would yield the symptoms you're describing. I would check and clean both the male and female connections, even if the connector doesn't look burnt.

What is the rating on the blown fuse? In other words, what part of the machine is it powering? That might help to narrow things down. (I don't own an older S-plus, so I'm not sure if the order from top to bottom matches the newer S-pluses.) I also suggest making sure that it hadn't blown again before checking voltages.