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Author Topic: Igt S2000 sound problem - humming and static  (Read 136125 times)
cowboygames
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« Reply #125 on: February 02, 2011, 08:48:53 PM »

Daughter board or LEGACY adapter for the one used to adapt older s2000 chips and simm cards to enhanced MPUs
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« Reply #126 on: February 23, 2011, 12:57:05 AM »

As long as we're talking FAQ and stickies (in the other thread), could some S2000 experts look at the THIS thread with an eye towards pruning it to be more of an FAQ?

It has ballooned to 125 posts; I would like to keep the accurate essential posts that cut to the chase in the sticky thread and split the rest into a regular thread. Let me know which replies numbers to keep and I'll prune it.

Thanks,

StatFreak garfield
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BR549 Auto Sales
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« Reply #127 on: November 21, 2011, 12:33:31 AM »

I tried this mod. on  all 3 speakers on one of my S2000 machines with a regular non-enhanced cpu, mm lite sound board and proper simm. The static and hum was gone but the sound level was much lower than before. Any ideas as to what else I can try? I have this same mod. on a few of my other machines and they sound perfect.
« Last Edit: November 21, 2011, 12:44:31 AM by BR549 Auto Sales » Logged
cowboygames
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« Reply #128 on: November 21, 2011, 01:19:50 AM »

What size resistors are you using? I use 10 ohm and usually adjust volume up 1 to compensate for volume loss
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« Reply #129 on: November 21, 2011, 02:54:22 AM »

I tried the 10 ohm and the 47 ohm as well, same results, in fact it actually sounds muffled and low. I installed another mm lite board from another one of my machines that sound fine and got the same results.
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« Reply #130 on: November 21, 2011, 03:02:35 AM »

Radio Shack part number 271-1105 - 47 ohm 1/2W 5% Carbon Film Resistor did the trick for me.  I put them on all three speakers (white wires).  Set volume at 7. 

Jason
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« Reply #131 on: November 21, 2011, 03:30:49 AM »

Are you putting one in line on each speaker lead (+&-) to each speaker? You might try swapping your amp board along with doing the mod. You may have two problems. Also check to make sure the + and - leads to your tray speaker aren't plugged to the speaker backwards
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« Reply #132 on: November 21, 2011, 03:40:43 AM »

As long as we're talking FAQ and stickies (in the other thread), could some S2000 experts look at the THIS thread with an eye towards pruning it to be more of an FAQ?

It has ballooned to 125 posts; I would like to keep the accurate essential posts that cut to the chase in the sticky thread and split the rest into a regular thread. Let me know which replies numbers to keep and I'll prune it.

Thanks,

StatFreak garfield
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Here you go Stat...this thing's like way too long now anyways... rotflmao


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« Reply #133 on: November 21, 2011, 03:46:03 AM »

I installed them inline on the white wire on the speaker side of the 2 wire plug, and I have tried another good amp and still get the same results, low muffled sound.
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Foster
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« Reply #134 on: November 21, 2011, 03:56:17 AM »

Check the jumper positions
I could not detect any difference when switching the ones near the input
but if the other 2 are wrong you wont have any mid range or treble
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« Reply #135 on: November 21, 2011, 04:01:16 AM »

all 4 are in the same position, the left 2 pins.
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Foster
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« Reply #136 on: November 21, 2011, 04:37:06 AM »

If your tray speaker is working then you have the output jumpers configured correctly
Like I stated before I can not tell any difference between the configuration of the input jumpers.

I finally noticed the static on mine but I have to be up against the speaker to really notice it.
If my top box fan on I notice the fan noise and not any noise from the speaker.

Post a recording of what your sounds like.

When I was making a harness for my top box, converting from vision ready harnesses to S2000 harnesses. I didn't install the attenuation jumper wires in the input black connector and the Buzz and noise was extremely loud.
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« Reply #137 on: November 21, 2011, 04:46:37 AM »

I even have my top box fan disconnected, and mine's quiet.  Our ears and sound criticism are all different though.   Is the problematic MPU a 504A?  That's what I'm running.

Jason
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« Reply #138 on: December 21, 2011, 05:55:59 AM »

As long as we're talking FAQ and stickies (in the other thread), could some S2000 experts look at the THIS thread with an eye towards pruning it to be more of an FAQ?

It has ballooned to 125 posts; I would like to keep the accurate essential posts that cut to the chase in the sticky thread and split the rest into a regular thread. Let me know which replies numbers to keep and I'll prune it.

Thanks,

StatFreak garfield
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Here you go Stat...this thing's like way too long now anyways... rotflmao

Thanks, but it looks a little rusty.  Crazy knockout


The goal is to identify the posts in this thread that offer the most accurate information in the most concise manner and then cull them out and lock them. (The thread is already stickied.) The rest will be left in an unlocked and unstickied thread that can continue to ramble indefinitely. I don't have the hands on experience with the S2000 necessary to make the choices. It should preferably be someone who has tried various resistors in many different machine configurations and knows which values work best in which situations.

I know that Buzz knows which boards do and don't need the mod and I think he's used much lower-valued resistors successfully.

(Paging Foster, Buzz, et al) Tongue Out rotflmao rotflmao

Stat garfield
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Triple_Ding
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« Reply #139 on: April 02, 2012, 03:05:36 AM »

I'm not an electrical wiz. But, I do remember reading somewhere, that the color code is oriented in the proper direction. The previous post in the matter of the diode I believe is correct. Just wondering if the sound resistor needs to be the same ?  There should be a site that explains color codes and orientation. 
I have the REV. A board and it hums . .unfortunately the sound needs to be low. Still sounds like somewhere in the line it is picking up interference from another device. It would be nice to isolate the source, and use a barrier (rubber), or something.
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Foster
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« Reply #140 on: April 02, 2012, 03:37:18 AM »

Resistors do nor have a polarity they only resist the flow of electrons.
Diodes have a NP junction that has a polarity.

501, 502, 503, 504A need the resistors or mods to make them match the 504B
The reason the buzz or hum occurs because the audio and/power traces for the audio on the MPU pick up noise from other traces near them.
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« Reply #141 on: April 02, 2012, 03:56:54 AM »

It would be nice to isolate the source. . .
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Foster
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« Reply #142 on: April 02, 2012, 05:04:11 AM »

At one time some on posted the IGT bulletin instructions on here either as a post or PDF cant remember which.

I followed he bulletin to the letter. I think it helped.
The only other way is to figure out what section of the audio is being affected, I heard it is more pronounced when a MML2 Board and sound simm is being used.
I do not have an easy to test this without performing a major MPU and motherboard replacement (I have a 502A and a 504B with motherboard but they are considered spare parts for now
machine has 1270 MPU, legacy adapter and motherboard in it now

I still wonder if some of the machine to Amp harnesses have the attenuation jumper wires installed properly, mine are set to the highest attenuation. I am not talking about the little jumper blocks on the amp
« Last Edit: April 02, 2012, 05:14:47 AM by Foster » Logged

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« Reply #143 on: April 02, 2012, 09:07:54 AM »

I'm thinking if one had an Oscilloscope, the source could be pinned down.
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« Reply #144 on: April 02, 2012, 11:54:40 AM »

I still wonder if some of the machine to Amp harnesses have the attenuation jumper wires   installed properly, mine are set to the highest attenuation. I am not talking about the little jumper blocks on the amp

If you don't mean the little jumper blocks on the amplifier board, what jumpers are you referring to?

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Foster
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« Reply #145 on: April 04, 2012, 09:34:58 AM »

If you look at the input harness to the amp
there are 2 wires that act as jumpers between 2 sets of pins on the black input connector

Top box, speaker wiring diagram with amp or EZ pay bulkhead retrofit wiring diagrams
Pin 1 Channel B 19:1 Attenuation to pin 9 Channel B Attenuation Common
Pin 5 Channel A 19:1 Attenuation to pin 4 Channel A Attenuation Common

And you cant get any more attenuation than 19:1 the other settings are lower, volume level 1 would be loud if you tried them.
Temporarily remove one end of the jumpers from the connector and listen how loud the noise is without them

« Last Edit: April 04, 2012, 09:55:27 AM by Foster » Logged

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« Reply #146 on: April 04, 2012, 11:29:13 AM »

Thanks Foster!
Karma Plus + to you!
I was wondering what you meant by jumpers other than the blocks.
Excellent answer!  yes
I will check it out... stir the pot / get cooking

I had some sound problems last week as I wasn't hearing the high treble notes being played just before a "Free Spin" bonus round.
I wasn't hearing the the high pitched "ting" sounds alerting a player that a "Bonus" symbol was on a payline. hissy fit
The "fix" was to raise my chair... bust gut laughing
I was hearing too much bass sounds coming from the coin tray speaker...
I would really like to equalize the sounds coming from my machine a bit better to suit my selective hearing.  arrow

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« Reply #147 on: April 04, 2012, 04:03:59 PM »

Figure this one out, The other day I needed to check a WBA BV. Installed it in a known good machine and lost all audio. I played about 5 games and NO reel sounds, switched back to the original BV and sound came back.  wtf1

Well I'm not going to let this get the best of me so I reinstalled the suspect BV.  This time it worked fine, reel sounds worked as they should. AGAIN wtf1

So next time someone has audio problems, have them check their BV. ( sure right put that one on top of the list ) I have came to the conclusion that slot machines hate me !! But that's OK I don't like them either !!   yes yes
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Triple_Ding
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« Reply #148 on: April 04, 2012, 04:14:58 PM »

Now, if us other intellegent species just knew what a WBA BV was and the component location?? PP (possible picture) TY (thank you)
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Buzz
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« Reply #149 on: April 04, 2012, 04:27:36 PM »

http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?board=36.0


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