wms lower power supply fix

[kenokarz]

 Re: Lower PS replacement on 40x?
« Reply #4 on: July 13, 2008, 11:40:14 AM »   

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ok here are some pics of the power supply THANKS TO BRIAN AT ROCKY MOUNTIAN SLOTS.
you have to use a no lees than a 480 output supply, i use a logisys part # ps480d-bk
out of the computer supply you take 6 reds, 4 blacks 1 blue 2 yellow, see pics below
from the wms power supply get rid of the problem board and take 2 red, 4 black,1 yellow , 1 blue
i cut a hole in the bottom of the power  for the wires , plug the computer supply into the 110 voutlet on the
side of the wms supply,  than you can put the computer supply in the game some place . i have enough wire so
i can put mine in the top box area, hope this  helps,

[kenokarz]

this is from cfh he did a great conversion
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Ok here it is, a better way to add a computer power supply to a Wms 40x
slot machine. Since the original lower Wms power supply is very problematic,
this allows a cheap "plug and play" computer power supply to be implemented
quickly and without hassle. This design allows easy addition/removal of a computer P.S.
to the existing Wms harness. If this new computer P.S. dies, within 2 minutes you
can install another. Or likewise, if you get the original Wms P.S. working,
the added Computer P.S. can be removed quickly (with only the added plug
to the original harness being left behind).

I modified the original Wms cable (#H-17965-0x) going from the
large 24 pin Wms power supply to the Wms back panel board.
Splicing in wires, and adding a connector for the new computer P.S.

The new computer power supply will be replacing the
following voltages (originally supplied by the Wms switching
power supply):
+5 vdc at 10 amps
+12 vdc at 5 amps
-12 vdc at 1 amp

Parts Needed:
(1) Molex connector housing#39-01-2201 (Mouser.com #538-39-01-2201)
(8) Molex connector pins #39-00-0041 (Mouser.com #538-39-00-0041)
(2) 1ft red wire
(2) 1ft black wire
(1) 1ft blue wire
(1) 1ft yellow wire
(1) 4" piece of green wire
(1) Computer Power Supply (at least 250 watts or higher)
(1) foot 1/4" heat shrink tubing
Orignal H-17965 harness in Wms model 40x machines
Molex crimping tool (for adding the new pins)

As described above, remove the original lower power supply
form the slot. Then open up the existing original Wms power
supply and remove the two .156" modex connectors from
the switching power supply. Replace the cover and re-mount
the original Wms power supply.

Using a soldering iron splice in two new red wires to the existing
Wms harness' red wire going from the power supply to the
back panel. Use heat shrink tubing for a clean insulated job.
This is +5 volts.

Using a soldering iron splice in two new black wires to the existing
Wms harness' red wire going from the power supply to the
back panel. Use heat shrink tubing for a clean insulated job.
This is ground.

Using a soldering iron splice in one new yellow wire to the existing
Wms harness' yellow wire going from the power supply to the
back panel. Use heat shrink tubing for a clean insulated job.
This is +12 volts.

Using a soldering iron splice in one new blue wire to the existing
Wms harness' blue wire going from the power supply to the
back panel. Use heat shrink tubing for a clean insulated job.
This is -12 volts.

Now crimp new 39-00-0041 male Molex pins to the ends of
my new wires, and insert them into the 39-01-2201 connector.
This connector will mate to the new power supply. Be careful
crimping the pins, they are very easy to damage.

In addition, crimp pins to both ends of the green 4" piece of wire.
This goes into the new plug as the green "power-on" to ground
jumper (which allows the power supply to turn on without software
control).

Install the new computer power supply inside the slot. Plug the
120v computer P.S. into the original Wms power supply (use the white
120v plugs near in the back of the power supply.

Mount the new power supply in the corner below/behind the
bill acceptor. Or maybe below the original power supply
(haven't tried that position yet.)

That's it!

[kenokarz]

 Re: Lower PS replacement on 40x?
« Reply #10 on: July 16, 2008, 05:31:52 AM »   
\this is also from clays post
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Testing your new Computer Power supply.

After making the above cable modifications, i like to
test the new rig. Unfortunately you really can't do this
outside of the slot (because the transformer supplies
voltage to the Wms power supply, and the new computer
power supply wants a "load").

So this is what i do:
Remove the I/O board and PCBA processor board
from the game, and set aside. Now i have a SMOKED
I/O board that i install. The board is already broken,
but the LEDs work. So with my broken I/O board
installed (and no processor board), i power up the
rig. All five LEDs should be ON. (the left side Fail LED
may or may not be on, but it does not matter.)

Now use a DMM and check the voltages coming out
of the Wms power supply 24 pin plug:

Pin 1,2 (blk/gray) = Gnd
Pin 3,4,5 (red) = +5 volts
Pin 6,7 (gray) = +20 volts
Pin 8 (blk/white) = -1 volts (sense, voltage varies, ignore)
Pin 9 (red/white) = +.5 volts (sense, voltage varies, ignore)
Pin 10 (blue) = -12 volts
Pin 11 (yellow) = +12 volts
Pin 12 (orange) = +5 volts
....
Pin 13-24 (blk/gray) = Gnd (entire bottom row)

Make sure all those voltages are good.
If you are missing +5, -12, or +12, then you did
something wrong with the new wiring (or your
new computer power supply is dead). Note the
20 volts is supplied by the original Wms power
supply (it is unregulated, goes through a bridge
rectifier, filter caps, and a fuse). If that is missing
you will need to check the bridge rectifier/fuse inside
the original Wms power supply box.

If the voltages are good, remove the test I/O board,
and install the two "good" boards.
And you're off and running!

[m77]

I hope someone is still watching this thread.  I've been having problems with my WMS Jackpot Stampede Deluxe for a long time.  I did this mod and get all the LED's to light. But the system won't boot.  Boards were tested in another machine and are good.

Here's what I just found, when testing the voltages coming out of the old williams supply - everything works according to cfh's guidelines, but the orange cable, which is supposed to be 5v from the old supply is reading 0 volts.  Would it be advisable to jump one of the reds to this orange to bring it to 5 volts?  

Does anyone know where the orange +5 is supposed to come from and why it may not be working?

Thanks.

[stayouttadabunker]

Why not ask CFH?
Just send him a PM asking for help...I don't think he bites!  

My guess is that 5vdc would come from a rectifier.
If the rectifier is bad - goodbye 5volts.

[Jim]

m77    when you originally posted this problem  I suggested that you check the supply voltages and the two fuses that are underneath the power supply that you are replacing. There are two fuses on the main logic board inside the Power Distribution Unit (PDU),underneath the bad power supply.  You have to remove the power supply to get to these fuses.  I believe the voltage is -5vdc coming from the PDU. ( I'm at work so I can't reference the schematic, I could be mistaken about the polarity of the voltage)  There is a voltage regulator on the main board that supplies this voltage.

I would start here and see what going on inside the PDU.  Yes, you have to remove the PDU to do all of this.

Jim

[m77]

Thanks. I've had no luck contacting CFH either.

Jim, I checked those fuses and they are good.  All the voltages are good, and i found elsewhere on the forum someone who said the 5 volts that i am missing does not matter (his game worked without it).  I am still baffled and will attack the backplane next, with the assumption that the power supply and harness are OK.

Thanks for your help.

[Randy0777]

I've done this on five machines... All of them worked great. The first one i did was an upper,and the second was a lower. After that,I did not care...I did both at the same time and put the PS in the top box. First,I would make sure you have a good PC PS,second ,make sure it's wired right,third is a bad board(1 of the 3)
Dont worry,CFH will run across this post sooner or later