Wiring in a Bally ProSlot/coin comparitor

[golflover]

Hello All:

I have brought my ProSlot out of  hibernation, used the 2AA battery fix I found on here and cleared the saferam error 81 code. My next problem is the coin comparator was not taking coins. They fall thru to the tray. The switch is in the up position. The optics sound when I drop a coin thru them on the inside. I decided to take the comparator out, it is a cc16D. Previous owner had black electrical tape on the spot where the molex connector went, where I found that the molex connector  is not there. he had cut the wires and used wires from a computer sound card. When looking at the harness he had cut and taped  the wires  together. My  questions is there is a orange/grey wire ; a black and blue wire and a white wire. I have looked  at my  schematics but it  doesn't tell me what wire does what,  ie. power, ground and sense. I have downloaded the cc files from the file section but they didn;t tell me much about the wires. I know  I may need to buy a new harness but am not sure which harness. As always any and all help appreciated.

[Buzz]

Red  2nd from top     yellow 4th from top         black bottom    I will give this one if you want it.  We are talking about a Bally 5500 Pro Slot aren't we?

[golflover]

Hey Buzz:

Well I was under the impression that this was a 5500 Proslot. still think it is but the wires that I have going to my coin acceptor, or rather did are bound together with all the wiring for the buttons and dispalys. It runs along the front of the cabinet under the buttons and then to the board (backplane) at the rear of the machine.  Again all bundled together and connect to the board via a molex connector. I'll get pics as soon as I can to explain this better.  The model number on the bally plate on the side of the machine is S63U3CT10, not sure if that helps. and the 3 wires I have coming out of the harness before someone splced them are blue/black, grey/orange and white. I could splce your connector in, but I would not know which or what I was splicing to since my bally manual doesn;t give me the wire colors. I have 2 comparitors for it. That came with it, I'm wondering if the splcing was done to make an incompatible comparitor compatible with this machine? I downloaded the list of the compaitors that stayouttadabunker posted and will check the numbers on the comparitors. One is a cc16-d and the other a cc16 rev f. So am still plugging and testing. Thanks for the assitance.

[Buzz]

I just looked at 3 Bally 5500 that do not use the pig tail, wire colors going to the coin compatiator are #2 pin White/Brown, #4 pin Blue/Brown, #6 pin Gray/Orange

[golflover]

HI Buzz:

Congrats to the sys ads for getting the board back up. I checked and believe my machine might be a 5000 or a mongrel that the guy patched together. Am not sure how but the basic few sheets of paper I got with the machine refer to a Bally 5000 ProSlot. Thanks for your diligence with the wiring schematic. I love the wires around and the cc lit up on a few different patterns but the coins just feel thru to the tray. The cc solenoid didin;t engage to let the coin drop to the optic. The optics work as I dropped a coin thru and it registered and I got the audible coin drop sound. The coin switch was tried in both the up and down positions just to  be safe. Probably going to have to try another cc and start looking for a source for an entire door harness to fix the problem.  Thanks again!

[Buzz]

For testing purposes only,  block the rake on the back of the coin comparitor open.

[golflover]

OK I'll try that and then the different combinations of wire connections to the cc. If I follow your theory, the coin should still drop thru to the optic and register? We are just by passing the cc and going to the optic correct? Thanks again!

[golflover]

Hi Buzz:

Sorry for the delay in answering. Work got in the way this week. Anyway finally got some time on the machine today. I hooked up the comparitor as best I could and have a bright red light.  So it has power. I blocked the rake as you suggested. I closed the door and dropped in a coin and it fell thru to the hopper but did not register. The insert coin light is flashing. I opened the door and dropped a coin in to see what wwas going on and it passed thru the optic and I got the coin in sound when it passed thru. Not sure that makes sense to me or if they are supposed to work that way. As I mentioned this is a 5000 ProSlot not a 5500 as I thought/was told.

[golflover]

OK, I have fiddled with the wires, blocked the rake, the red led is lit on the comparitor but with the door closed the optic makes no sound when a coin passes thru. With the door open a coin dropped thru the comparitor into the optic makes a sound. Dropping a second coin produces no sound at all.  I'm thinking I need to get a new harness or molex connector and straighten the wiring mess out first. After doing some research on here and other places it appears this is a solid 5000 proslot not the 5500 it was protrayed at. Anyway a mixture of parts it appears. In looking at past posts on here, I am confused as to Pin 1 on the comparitor. When looking at the comparitor, with the harness molex on the left, is Pin 1 at the top and Pin 6 at the bottom? Or vice versa?  Still plugging along 

[stayouttadabunker]

There are many ways to tell where the first pin starts on rectangular Molex connectors.>>>

1). With a magnifying glass , you can actually see small raised pin numbers
     molded onto the Molex connectors right next to the holes.

2). Sometimes there will be a raised single-line,
     a raised double-line, and a third raised line signifying pins 1, 2, & 3, etc.

3). Other times there will be an small/tiny little indented single triangle which means the 1st pin.

Hope this helps ya!

[golflover]

Thnaks Bunker!!  I'll have to get my cheater glasses and the magnifying glass out..lol  How ya hitting them.  Goit out last week, shot a disappointng 87. Got to get the short game back in shape! was in the 90's here the last few days just to hot to play. Today thunderstorms. Sunday looks like my next time out, and then a tournament the 19th.  Any good courses up your way. this summer is our last for teh finger lakes region for a while. We are gonna start doing weeks in the 1000 islands next year.  I'll let you know how I make out with the pins.

[stayouttadabunker]

Hey! when you come up to the 1000 Islands next year!
Give me a message and I'll try to meet up with ya for a round of golf!
1000 Islands is only about 2 hrs from my home.

[golflover]

Sounds good!   I'll be up that way for a few days probably in September to do some scouting of the parks. never like to pull my 5th wheel without knowing the layout of the sites I'll be putting it on. Will give me a chance to scout courses too. cept the warden will be with me so i won't be able to golf on the weekend trip. It is only about 4.5 hours from here to the 1000 islands not a bad trip at all.

[stayouttadabunker]

The warden? I'm assuming you're in jail then? 



(just kidding...lol)

[Ron (r273)]

The warden? I'm assuming you're in jail then? 





(just kidding...lol)

Boy is that a good one!   

That made my day too.

Ron (r273)

[golflover]

The warden? I'm assuming you're in jail then? 

LOL She still laughs at that too. I gave he that nick name when I got on the job 23 years ago. Somebody has to watch me..lol  I don't work for corrections though, I'm on the outside..




(just kidding...lol)

Boy is that a good one!   

That made my day too.

Ron (r273)

[golflover]

Boy did I quote that one half assed backwards

[golflover]

Course I could add that I always tell her there are guys in Attica doing less time then me and some of them even get time taken off for good behavior!!!!

[golflover]

Anyway... Back to the problem at hand. I have done some more research and figure that this machine has to be a 5500 ProSlot. Whrn I got it it had a 5000 plus manual with it and everything worked so I figured it was a 5000. Now I finally got a 5500 manual and see some differences with the back board, main board etc. Even though the clear saferam etc and error codes were essentiially the same. Sorry Buzz. I'm still learning.  Since the compairitor  was barn jobbed aka spliced into  the wiring harness and I guess I can see why they did that instead of a whole harness. The comparitor is a CC16-d  1.00 In looking at the optics it has 1.00 marked on it. The  options on the machine are set for 25 cents. There is a quarter in the CC. Would this cause problems as far as reading the coins in the optics if it is a 1.00 optic insteead of a quarter? I have a pig tail from an I GT machine cc harness and am going to follow Buzz and Bunker;s wiring directions to change the wires in the molex comnnector to line upright. That should give me a solid connection again to the CC. The thing that is confusing me is that with the rake blocked open per Buzz's suggestion and a coin dropped thru the optic does not respond with the door closed.  If I do the test with the door open the optic responds with sound and on occassion I get the invalid coin error.  Are 25 cent optics available? Where?  Thanks again to everyone for there help!   (Bell rang time for me to get back to the cell  )

Added update:  I spliced in the wiring harness with the molex connetor for the cc using Buzz's wiring. I again have red light on the comparitor. I blocked the rake and dropped a quarter thru and it passed to the optic, and made the coin in sound. door was open. With the door closed he coins passed to the hopper, rake  was blocked, but no coin in sound or recognition of the coin. I cannot seem to find any setup options I have missed. I've tried the coin mech toggle on the mainboard frame doesn;t make a difference. Am open to any ideas and suggestions as I have pretty much run out of any tinkering ideas...

[stayouttadabunker]

It sounds like you have something mixed up on the door's cherry switch.
For some reason, I'm being led to believe that your machine is accepting
coins sporadically - while the door is open?
If it does, then I'm seriously thinking that the cherry switch has a wire squeezed onto the
"closed" tab  position on the cherry switch when it should be on the other tab.
If this is corrected then, I think your machine will take coins when you close the door.

The cherry switch works in 3 positions.
1).
When the plunger is fully depressed ( this meaning the door is physically closed),
the machine will get the reels in home position and be ready to accept coins via the slot.

2).
When the door is physically open and the plunger on the cherry switch is fully extended,
the machine should not accept coins at all.
The only way to put credits on would be to press the "service coin" button located on
the coin-in optic boards on the door.
You will only be able to put on max "credits" depending on the game installed.

3).
Finally, while the door is physically open and the plunger is manually pulled out, the cherry switch
will send a signal back to the computer fooling the machine into thinking the door is "closed"
when indeed it physically open.
With the plunger in this position, and the door physically opened, the coins dropped
through the slot will register a credit - depending on how well the optic boards are functioning.

[golflover]

Morning Bunker:

Didn't mean to confuse the issue. The optic is registering a coin when dropped thru when the door is open and the switch is out. If the switch is in it does not register. What I cannot figure out is why it will register the coin door open switch out and not register the coin with the door closed. If it works one way, I beleive it should work the other way also. As the optic on mine is a 1.00 optic I'm acquiring a new one and can test for that. In speaking with Buzz, he thinks that the comparitor should be glowing green not red to accept coins. In reading the manual it makes no mention of this and I don;t recall seeing a green LED. Also should this be a 12-13volt CC or the 24 volt CC. It is a 5500 Proslot and the manuals I've acquired state it should be a 12 volt. I'm thinking both the compairitors I've got are fried too. I wired in the harness and was looking at the manual last night, not quite sure I have the wires right.  I'll post the configuration tonight when I get home. just so i know that part is right. I did follow what you posted before so it should be good. But then again this machine looks like it was a mixture of parts and barn jobbed with the optics and the CC's. As always  thanks for the help!!!

[stayouttadabunker]

My Bally ProSlot 5500 has a 24Vdc coin comparitor in it.
If you put a 13Vdc coin comparitor in it - That 13VDC coin comparitor is surely fried.

Remember, 24VDC coin comps have 2 gray wires for the rake.
The 13VDC CC's have 2 green wires.

I still believe the cherry switch may be incorrectly wired somewhere around that unit.
When the switch is pushed in all the way manually, hold it in with one hand and drop
some coins through the slot with your other hand and
see if the coins dropped get registered onto the display board.

If you can, PM me so I can give you my email address.
I want to see a copy of the paragraph of your manual that states
that the Bally Proslot uses a 13VDC coin comparitor.
I think you have the wrong manual for your machine.
You still seem to give us mixed signals as to what kind of machine you have.
Who put a 13VDC coin comparitor in your machine?
Did it come like that?
I find it hard to understand how it could ever work.
The coin comparitor should have burned out the minute you turned on the machine.
I'm suspecting that the label on the cover is incorrect.
That's why I want to see the board itself.


If you can open the cover of the coin comparitor and take a good high
resolution photograph of the board inside - I will be able to tell you if it's fried.
Some coin comparitors have different colored LEDs - they CAN be red sometimes.
It depends on what the repair guy had on hand when he replaced the Led....lol

[golflover]

Hey Bunker:

Love the fried  graphic can you say toast..lol   I will check when i get home but am thinking both the comparitors i got with the machine have grey wirres.  The manual I orginally got with the machine said Ballly 5000. So i assumed (you know what that means) that it was a 5000. Since I rarely if ever had an issue with it til now and didn;t have to tinker with it, no problems. now in trying to fix this comparitor issue I found the splicing, the optic was for a 1.00 coiin etc.  Again maunals were with the machine, so i will defer to your knowledge. I'll reread the manual and check it, if what I have says 13 I'll scan it and get it to you. I was given several with the machine, who knows if they were the right ones and I'm still learning. Least I have a great collection of paperwork. Would a 24v CC be fried if it was connected to a 13v system? Both the CC's have red led's, and I would not think that they would be able to change color from what I know about led's. Course that probably  fits in a thimble..lol.

[stayouttadabunker]

Here's the thing....I don't know if the Bally 5000 was a 13VDC system.
The coin comparitor would act very flakey if a 24VDC was plugged into a 13VDC machine.
I doubt if it would work at all...if any.
There's just not enough juice.  
However, if you system is a 24VDC machine and
you put in a 13VDC coin comparitor - it's Fry-O-Matic. POOF!

If you have a 5000 manual - surely it must be different from a 5500 machine.
All answers will be answered if you post up some pics if the machine
in question for verification from other Bally 5000 owners.
It should also say on the tags on the side of the machine too.
Also, the MPU board, there will be some numbers etched onto it -
as well as all the other boards installed.
"Never judge a book by it's cover" - labels and cover plates get switched all the time.

[golflover]

Hey Bunker:

I'll get home today and get some pics. I am pretty certain this is a Proslot now. model 5500 circa 1996. Allthough some parts say 1994, 1995 etc. I beleive it was scapped together for llack of a better word and it just happend to work. My confusion came because most of the work i did in the past with the 5000 manual I had worked and i never had a problem. So i wrongly assumed it was a 5000. Now in researching that is obviously not the case and i need to back track and start ffrom square one especially with the comparitor which is the current headache. I'lll worry about upgrading the DBV after I get this first problem fixed. I am hoping that my patch job with the IGT comparitor harness works as I would sure hate to have to replace the entire harness from the back plane board forward to the compairitor and I don;t see any plugs of consequence in between. I am going to recheck my wiring also to make sure I have the wires connected to the compairitor in the right order. Just to eliminate that as a potential problem later in this endeavor.