help needed with double red white blue machine

[reefpatrol]

sorry yes there are two wires, pulled the tape off and they are twisted together.

(Ohio gaming) I cant test the optics now, since I cant get past the 61_1.

yes its a sp1145.

suprisingly, the motherboard was pretty clean

[reefpatrol]

also if i turn the machine off then on i get the 61. I can shut the door and turn the reset key (before i push the white switch to get 61_1) and it will go through a bunch of different numbers with each turn before finally getting back to the 61.

if that means anything ??

[OhioGaming]

Disconnect the wires from the key switch and run some jumper wires for the switch out the bottom of the machine to eliminate the switch.

Run them out where the coin tray would be.

[stayouttadabunker]

Sounds like he went into "Accounting Mode" then back to [61]

The door has to be open, hit the test button once...the number will display [61-1],
THEN close the door and turn the reset key once to boot the machine.

[poppo]

Can you even get into the self test if you are stuck at 61_1?

If turning the reset key is changing things (i.e. accounting mode), then the reset switch has to be good.

I'm pretty sure he did it the right way, but is just trying different things now.

[reefpatrol]

I was thinking maybe the reset key was bad, but it worked each time in what you guys called accounting mode

[poppo]

If you have a set chip, you could pop that MPU in the other good machine to see if it will clear in that one. It will still get a 61 again when you put it back in this one, but at least you can determine if the MPU is working or not. The downside is you 'might' need the set chip when you put the good MPU back in the good machine. If it clears and works in the other one, then you know it has to be a wiring/optics issue of some sort.

[stayouttadabunker]

Make sure the power switch is off when inserting/swapping out boards okay?
Don't want you burning out possible good MPU's!!!

[reefpatrol]

MPU ?         Is that the motherboard?

If so I was thinking about doing that just to start eliminating stuff, kind of as a last resort.....

[stayouttadabunker]

MPU is the upright main board with the big black knob while the motherboard is the one on the floor.
Never, EVER have the power turned on when removing or installing these boards.

Put the known good MPU into the problem machine to see if you can get past the [61-1] error code.
Don't mess with any dip switches or chips.
Install the known good MPU into the problem machine AS IS!
If you can able to boot the machine with the door closed and turning the reset key once ,
then the problem is with the old MPU board - this would mean
that your optics and various switches/ jumped wires are fine.

[poppo]

MPU ?         Is that the motherboard?

If so I was thinking about doing that just to start eliminating stuff, kind of as a last resort.....

The MPU is the board in the back with the black knob. The motherboard is the board the MPU plugs into (which could also have issues).

IMO, at this point, it can't hurt. You could be running on a wild goose chase if the MPU is bad.


<edit> Bunker is learning to type faster. 

[stayouttadabunker]

<edit> Bunker is learning to type faster. 

yeah...but I type a lot more Sh** than you do !!!!! 

[poppo]

Put the known good MPU into the problem machine to see if you can get past the [61-1] error code.

That would work, but I personally would do it the other way around. Since he has a known good machine, putting the suspect MPU in it would be a quick check to see if the MPU is good. The troubled machine 'could' have a both a bad MPU and other issues too.

[stayouttadabunker]

Either way it's swapped crosses out some blanks in trouble-shooting...
Eventually we'll whittle down the problems and fill in the blanks and his machine will be up and running.
Remember reefpatrol,.... "The more you tell/show us - the more we can help ya!"

Keep spitting out details, details, details...and you'll be playing your machine in no time!

[OhioGaming]

If turning the reset key is changing things (i.e. accounting mode), then the reset switch has to be good.

I'm a day late and a dollar short .. I should know better but wasn't thinking.

EDIT .. went back and read some of the posts again.
I haven't seen anywhere that the reset key changed any settings (its late and could have missed a post) and there is a couple of posts that he mentions the key didn't change anything.
Those settings he got there by pressing the self test switch and I didn't see a post that he went into an area where the key would of have been used to change a setting and worked.

Like both of you have mentioned about the boards .. those are always a possibliity.

[stayouttadabunker]

Ohio,
reefpatrol did say that the "Coins In" changed to an [01] when turning
the reset key with the door closed....
plus he gets the "spin" button lit up...that means he can view
the "Accounting Mode"...but that's it really...
The door optics are not sensing each other - therefore he
has no change in the "Coins In" window - even after swapping with known good door optics....>>>

yes, the wheels stay stiff with resistance when powered on.
when winner payed says 3100 coins played is blank, when winners payed says 1 coins played shows 0.
Does not seem to change if door is open or closed.

whith door closed if I turn the reset key one time on the outside its changes in
the display to winner paid 01 and coins played to 1, with the spin wheels button lighted up.

[OhioGaming]

Ohio,
reefpatrol did say that the "Coins In" changed to an [01] when turning
the reset key with the door closed....
plus he gets the "spin" button lit up...that means he can view
the "Accounting Mode"...but that's it really...>>>

yes, the wheels stay stiff with resistance when powered on.
when winner payed says 3100 coins played is blank, when winners payed says 1 coins played shows 0.
Does not seem to change if door is open or closed.

whith door closed if I turn the reset key one time on the outside its changes in
the display to winner paid 01 and coins played to 1, with the spin wheels button lighted up.

Okay .. it's not the switch.

[reefpatrol]

Just to make sure, put the nonworking machine MPU in the working machine, which should give me a 61 code, push white button and should change to 61_1, then reset key should clear it. If the MPU is good ?

It won't matter if they are different games, and it won't mess up the working machine ?
Afterwards I should be able to put the working machine back together and it will work fine.

[poppo]

Just to make sure, put the nonworking machine MPU in the working machine, which should give me a 61 code, push white button and should change to 61_1, then reset key should clear it. If the MPU is good ?

After you close the door, and turn the reset key, it should clear. You should then be able to play the game. Of course the reel strips won't match and so it won't pay out correctly, but you just want to see if everything clears and the game actually starts up and plays.

It won't matter if they are different games, and it won't mess up the working machine ?
Afterwards I should be able to put the working machine back together and it will work fine.

The only thing it might mess up on the working machine is you 'may' have to re-enable the BV (if you even have one). Other than that' it should not hurt anything. When you put the good MPU back in the good machine, you will get some errors on that too and have to clear them. The reason for all of this, in case you didn't know, is there is a EEPROM on the motherboard that stores data. When the machine powers up, it compares that data to what is on the CMOS chip on the MPU. If they don't match, you get errors that have to be cleared.  

You can also do like Bunker said and put the good MPU in the trouble machine. If it clears, then you know you have a bad MPU. If it doesn't clear, then you know there is something else wrong (i.e. wiring or optics). However, you still will not know if the other MPU is good or not.

One of the reasons I prefer not do it that way is if there was something shorted out on the bad machine (and especially becuase you may have a screwed up hopper emulator), then it 'could' damage your good MPU. Probably not likely, but still possible.

[reefpatrol]

ok, put the BAD MPU in the good working machine, got a 61, pushed white button to get a 61_1, shut the door and tried the key...nothing...so that means the MPU is no good (right).?

One of the reasons I prefer not do it that way is if there was something shorted out on the bad machine (and especially becuase you may have a screwed up hopper emulator), then it 'could' damage your good MPU. Probably not likely, but still possible.

now i'm scared to put the good mpu in the bad maching to see if it works, but I guess i'll have to just to verify that is all thats wrong with the bad machine (right) ?

[poppo]

ok, put the BAD MPU in the good working machine, got a 61, pushed white button to get a 61_1, shut the door and tried the key...nothing...so that means the MPU is no good (right).?

You might try putting the 'bad' MPU back in the suspect machine and running a clear one more time. Then try it again.

Also put the good MPU back in the good machine and make sure eveything clears.

I would still hold off on putting the good MPU in the bad machine until you do the above.

[stayouttadabunker]

ok, put the BAD MPU in the good working machine, got a 61, pushed white button
to get a 61_1, shut the door and tried the key...nothing...so that means the MPU is no good (right).?

Yes...Now you know the questionable MPU is bad.

Now in order to the check the wiring of the problem machine with the known good MPU,
you need to do a few things 1st so you do NOT screw up the good MPU.
The motherboard has to be checked.
I'm almost certain that there is corrosion underneath that motherboard in the problem machine.
It's the circuit board that's on the floor in which you slide the MPU into.

With the power off, take out the MPU.
Pull out the two black Molex connectors on the back of the motherboard that are against the cabinet's wall.
There are hard to remove sometimes.
You have to push on the tab that locks them to the motherboard header connectors
and wiggle the female harness out of the socket.
Once you have the two black harness connectors out, twist them back
and stick them behind themselves onto the wall so they're out of the way.

The motherboard has 3 screws holding it down to the floor.
However, the middle screw has a sleeve/guide that guides the MPU onto the motherboard
so the header connector pins line up.
Remove all three and place aside.

Now use a long thin screw driver and work the motherboard off of it's locking floor tabs.
The front tabs are easy enough to pop the motherboard off back the ones nearest to the wall
are kinda hard to get the motherboard to pop off off them - that's where the long screwdriver comes handy
as leverage to get underneath the board to kind of pop the MB off.

When you get the MB out of there, take a very good inspection of all the soldered components and
post a good high resolution photograph of both sides for us to inspect.
We can let yo know if the MB in the problem machine is good enough to use for the known good MPU or not.

Also, there should be a white padded plastic pad underneath the motherboard...
Check it carefully for any black burn marks to see if they correspond with possible defective motherboard IC components. >>>

<a href="http://www.youtube.com/v/jmAXCI-pu7U&rel=0" target="_blank">http://www.youtube.com/v/jmAXCI-pu7U&rel=0</a>

[reefpatrol]

I put the good MPU back in the good machine and it worked with no problems or codes, even kept all my credits. Also played it until I got a win just to make sure.

I will pull the motherboard back out(had it out when I cleaned the machine real good) and take a picture.

[reefpatrol]

here is a few pictures.

[reefpatrol]

two more pictures showing the only possible spots I could see. The two lower tan things have some of the coating gone. Also corresponds with the two darker burn type spots on the white pad. Hopefully comes out clear enough to see.