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Author Topic: help needed with double red white blue machine  (Read 55474 times)
stayouttadabunker
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« Reply #100 on: July 08, 2011, 12:31:04 PM »

Time for a new motherboard I'm afraid.
That was a Hurricane Katrina victim.... Duh!
I cannot imagine what it looks like underneath it! WOW!  arrow
The resistors are exploded and I doubt the traces are any good.  no
I strongly advise you NOT to install the known good MPU into that motherboard until you get a new one!!!!  no no no

Please pull the main power plug out of the wall socket.
That machine is fire prone even though there are many safety metal walls.

You going to have to check the power supply box too.
Remove one large screw on the left side of the box will allow you to take off the cover to look inside.
Make sure there is NO POWER going into that power supply box before removing the screw.
Click on any photo to enlarge....>>>


* reefpatrols corroded motherboard.png (594.9 KB, 790x392 - viewed 322 times.)

* Power Supply screw and power plugs.jpg (573.51 KB, 2576x1932 - viewed 328 times.)
« Last Edit: July 08, 2011, 12:43:16 PM by stayouttadabunker » Logged
reefpatrol
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« Reply #101 on: July 08, 2011, 12:37:52 PM »

underside of board looks good though.

anyone have a cheap motherboard and MPU they want to get rid of ?


* DSC_0502.JPG (1644.46 KB, 2256x1496 - viewed 315 times.)

* DSC_0501.JPG (1722.63 KB, 2256x1496 - viewed 316 times.)
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reefpatrol
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« Reply #102 on: July 08, 2011, 12:42:11 PM »

All that was cause from the machine being used as a mouse cage. Had about an inch of mice droppings in the inside. Not really rust, just watered downd(well, pee) soaked poop.........
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stayouttadabunker
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« Reply #103 on: July 08, 2011, 12:47:00 PM »

The bottom traces do look good...water likes to sit on top of things and rust it to hell really...not so much underneath.
I'm surprised there wasn't that much rust under there.
You may be able to salvage that board with a few resistors and trace repair...especially on top of the board.
However, it's a lot easier for many just to go out and get a replacement motherboard.
They're not expensive.
Place an ad for an S+ motherboard in the Classifieds Section of NLG
and I'm pretty sure someone will have one for ya!  yes


How are the long white connector pins coming out of the questionable MPU?   Okay?
Inspect them closely... Sherlock Smiley make sure none are bent or folded back against the wall of the connectors.
If so, I'd try it in the known good machine and see if you can clear any error codes like you did with the good MPU!
That would prove your questionable MPU is okay!

Also, try your door optics from the bad cabinet to the good cabinet to rule out the door optics being bad.
You have a bit of work to do before you get this puppy going right again but I will be very proud of you wen you do!  rotflmao
It's all a matter of swapping checking, swapping and checking... propeller
« Last Edit: July 08, 2011, 12:57:46 PM by stayouttadabunker » Logged
stayouttadabunker
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« Reply #104 on: July 08, 2011, 01:02:47 PM »

By the way....this is what the motherboard resistors ( "the 4 tan things"..... bust gut laughing) should look like...lol

R1=Brown/Blue/Brown/Gold
R2=Brown/Blue/Brown/Gold
R3=Orange/White/Gold/Gold
R4=Brown/Blue/Brown/Gold

Can any guess the values of these resistors offhand?  stir the pot / get cooking
Winner gets a free chicken dinner...!

These I'm sure, can be picked up at your local radio schnack store in your hometown.
However, there's a lot of corrosion elsewhere on that board and I don't know if it will work even after replacing these resistors.
You're talking a lot of continuity checking and probing with a multimeter to get this motherboard to ever work right again...
The traces on top may be corroded underneath the green covering they put on top of the traces.
This alone would cause certain suspect traces to be more resistant and require more power to get through the lines.
That in turn causes extra heat and more traces will expire.
I'd be, for sure, be looking around for another motherboard....

Click on photo  to enlarge...>>>


* S+ Motherboard Resistors.jpg (621.58 KB, 2576x1932 - viewed 371 times.)
« Last Edit: July 08, 2011, 01:13:23 PM by stayouttadabunker » Logged
poppo
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« Reply #105 on: July 08, 2011, 03:52:35 PM »

Can any guess the values of these resistors offhand?  stir the pot / get cooking
Winner gets a free chicken dinner...!


R1,R2,R4 are 180 ohm
R3 is 3.9 ohm

On the bad MPU, I would pull the CMOS chip, then plug it back in and see if it clears.
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stayouttadabunker
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« Reply #106 on: July 08, 2011, 04:19:07 PM »

Can any guess the values of these resistors offhand?  stir the pot / get cooking
Winner gets a free chicken dinner...!


R1,R2,R4 are 180 ohm
R3 is 3.9 ohm

On the bad MPU, I would pull the CMOS chip, then plug it back in and see if it clears.


You want Bar-B-Q sauce with that?    Tongue Out
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knagl
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Kevin


« Reply #107 on: July 08, 2011, 04:20:10 PM »

All that was cause from the machine being used as a mouse cage. Had about an inch of mice droppings in the inside. Not really rust, just watered downd(well, pee) soaked poop.........

I know someone on eBay selling toppers that you might be interested in.   Crazy rotflmao bust gut laughing

(It's an inside joke -- feel free to ignore this post.)
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reefpatrol
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« Reply #108 on: July 08, 2011, 04:45:15 PM »

MPU connector pins look good, and I dont see any bad spots on the MPU board like the ones on the mother board. Actually the MPU board looks really clean. I think since it was standing upright, and behind the cover the little squaky critters couldnt get to it to mark thier territory. However I could not get it to clear any codes when it was put in the working machine.
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poppo
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« Reply #109 on: July 08, 2011, 04:50:37 PM »

As I noted, try pulling the CMOS chip out of the bad MPU and then put it back in and try it again (in the good machine). It can't hurt. Part of the 61 thing is the data gets copied back from the EEPROM to the CMOS (which is battery backed up). It may just be 'glitched' or got corrupt if the EEPROM on your corroded motherboard is bad. Pulling it out will make it lose it's memory which is fine. The clear chip actually does the same thing, only it also erases the EEPROM.
« Last Edit: July 08, 2011, 05:11:34 PM by poppo » Logged
CommTech
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Joe


« Reply #110 on: July 08, 2011, 11:15:35 PM »

Can any guess the values of these resistors offhand?  stir the pot / get cooking
Winner gets a free chicken dinner...!


R1,R2,R4 are 180 ohm
R3 is 3.9 ohm

On the bad MPU, I would pull the CMOS chip, then plug it back in and see if it clears.

So Close ... R1,R2,R4 are 160 Ohm

And as for the Motherboard ... I agree that it is shot.  Those connector Pins are totally rusted.  Time for a replacement.
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stayouttadabunker
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« Reply #111 on: July 08, 2011, 11:43:07 PM »

Uh oh!...Poppo! I have to take that Bar-B-Q chicken away from you....  Crazy CoolChicken
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poppo
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« Reply #112 on: July 08, 2011, 11:53:21 PM »

So Close ... R1,R2,R4 are 160 Ohm

Uh oh!...Poppo! I have to take that Bar-B-Q chicken away from you....  Crazy CoolChicken

Ummm... not so fast. Tongue Out



* mb.jpg (155.33 KB, 743x467 - viewed 337 times.)

* mb1.jpg (272.86 KB, 806x693 - viewed 310 times.)
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stayouttadabunker
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« Reply #113 on: July 08, 2011, 11:54:36 PM »

 Cry Laughing bust gut laughing rotflmao


SO!!!!!!!! The plot thickens here! lololololol

Who should get the chicken dinner?!?!
Did IGT install the WRONG resistors? Hmmmmmm..........
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poppo
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« Reply #114 on: July 08, 2011, 11:57:55 PM »

Did IGT install the WRONG resistors? Hmmmmmm..........

No. See my nija edit (second picture).

Also the grey band (8) does look light blue on mine. Probably due to age.
« Last Edit: July 09, 2011, 12:08:16 AM by poppo » Logged
stayouttadabunker
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« Reply #115 on: July 09, 2011, 12:08:02 AM »

okay then...fair enough!
I have brown/blue/brown/gold....that equals 160 Ohms.
The colors on the resistors need to be brown/gray/brown/gold to be 180 Ohms.
So what is going on here?

Your photo is too small for me to see the colors.
What colors are your resistors on your board Poppo?
His board has brown/gray/brown/gold which equals 180 Ohms...crazy huh?
MY board may have the wrong ones?
Thanks!


(I know this thread is off a bit but I promise we will get back on track pronto! Thanks!)
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poppo
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« Reply #116 on: July 09, 2011, 12:13:59 AM »

Your photo is too small for me to see the colors.
What colors are your resistors on your board Poppo?

Here ya go. They do look a bit blue without the flash, as I posted above.
Click for a supersize picture.


* mb2.jpg (290.47 KB, 868x600 - viewed 295 times.)
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stayouttadabunker
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« Reply #117 on: July 09, 2011, 12:16:51 AM »

Interesting...I can't re-check mine until Monday morning but I could swear it's a light shade of blue... arrow Nerd
Thanks for the close-up shots of your resistors Poppo!  applause  yes
Have a super weekend!
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CommTech
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Joe


« Reply #118 on: July 09, 2011, 01:23:03 AM »

Interesting...I can't re-check mine until Monday morning but I could swear it's a light shade of blue... arrow Nerd
Thanks for the close-up shots of your resistors Poppo!  applause  yes
Have a super weekend!
Poppo is correct.  Looking at your picture, you do have Brown Gray Brown (180 Ohms) resistors.  I can see how they do look light blue in the picture though.
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knagl
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Kevin


« Reply #119 on: July 09, 2011, 05:53:04 AM »

Nerds!   Nerd

 Tongue Out
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stayouttadabunker
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« Reply #120 on: July 09, 2011, 10:10:57 AM »

Nerds!   Nerd

 Tongue Out

What's worse?    Color-blind nerds!  Cry Laughing bust gut laughing
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poppo
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« Reply #121 on: July 09, 2011, 11:46:30 AM »

How are the long white connector pins coming out of the questionable MPU?   Okay?
Inspect them closely... Sherlock Smiley make sure none are bent or folded back against the wall of the connectors.
If so, I'd try it in the known good machine and see if you can clear any error codes like you did with the good MPU!
That would prove your questionable MPU is okay!

I believe that is what he already did.

ok, put the BAD MPU in the good working machine, got a 61, pushed white button to get a 61_1, shut the door and tried the key...nothing...so that means the MPU is no good (right).?

However, I would not be so quick to write off the MPU as being bad. With the amount of damage on the motherboard, I'm not so sure the clear worked properly, and may have corrupted the CMOS data. That's why I suggested he pull the CMOS so that it loses it's memory and he try it again in the good machine.
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reefpatrol
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« Reply #122 on: July 09, 2011, 12:07:28 PM »

Quote
However, I would not be so quick to write off the MPU as being bad. With the amount of damage on the motherboard, I'm not so sure the clear worked properly, and may have corrupted the CMOS data. That's why I suggested he pull the CMOS so that it loses it's memory and he try it again in the good machine.

Getting ready to try that shortly, will let you know.
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reefpatrol
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« Reply #123 on: July 09, 2011, 12:59:34 PM »

I pulled the CMOS chip from the bad MPU board for a few minutes. Then put it back in. Then I put the bad MPU board in the good machine and it still does the same thing. It shows a 61, then I push the white button to get a 61_1. Shut the door then I turn the key, even tried holding the key and the 61_1 won't go away.

Then I took out bad board and put back in the original good board into the good machine. It works fine with no errors. It's like there was never any other board in there. Shouldn't I get some sort of error ?

Also I can't see any "possible" problems on the MPU like on the mother board. Could the transformer possibly be bad on the "bad" MPU board ? Any way of checking it ?
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OhioGaming
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WWW
« Reply #124 on: July 09, 2011, 01:01:25 PM »

Nerds!   Nerd

 Tongue Out

What's worse?    Color-blind nerds!  Cry Laughing bust gut laughing

And what is wrong with color blind nerds? I can't tell you if red is orange or blue is purple. All I know is that the top light on a traffic light means stop.
« Last Edit: July 09, 2011, 03:31:28 PM by OhioGaming » Logged
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