Mikohn Progressive Controllers Displays and other info

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cessnac182golf
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   Re: Mikohn Progressive Controllers Displays and other info
« Reply #491 on: May 08, 2006, 05:23:16 PM »   

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Quote from: cessnac182golf on May 04, 2006, 05:27:21 PM
And the Winner is......................

Well............it's on the way!       I did not have an extra Mikohn power connector..........and I did not have one for my 1st supreme also...........so if your 1 X 3 does not have one (knowing Rich...it probably does)  open up the power supply...all the power from this is 5V DC...This is how Mikohn takes the power from it.......there are 8 terminals..the outer 2 on each side are 5V.....the center 4 are common (ground). They run the 3 panels off of 1,2 and 7....and the board runs off #8. Just discard the Mikohn connector and wire your own.         Tim

PS..............don't forget to use some kind of static protection!

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   Re: Mikohn Progressive Controllers Displays and other info
« Reply #492 on: May 08, 2006, 05:38:37 PM »   

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Hey Jay................have you had a chance to scope out the CD I sent you? Just wondering if any of those PSP's are anything different. I have been using the PSP-2  in the old configuration..........and have absolutely no idea as to how to use the other ones. I can not get any of the story boards to load correctly....I must be missing something....and when I do the Supreme lists itself as an AGL or Mark 2....and shuts down your ability to erase the flash. The way to get the downloader back to thinking it is talking to a supreme is to send it another BACKGROUND.BAT file and it reverts back and then you can erase the flash memory and start over. I was beginning to think that the storyboards were only for the real big meters until I received my 2 X 3 and it had one (Caesars) loaded on it. On the CD this is a storybook............so we still have to figure out how to get the FLC files converted to the MIK using the provided converter but it will not pull up on the downloader (look under utilities..........it's there but not in bold type). Any Ideas!   Thanks!   Tim 

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   Re: Mikohn Progressive Controllers Displays and other info
« Reply #493 on: May 08, 2006, 06:16:28 PM »   

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Oh...one more question...I am using Radio Shack brushless  65 CFM 110V AC 4 " cooling fans (1 each) on my 1 X 3 and 2 X 3. With 2 going at the same time......there   Noisy! I know 65 CFM is overkill but I liked the 4" coverage and using line voltage. What can I use to lower the speed on these AC motors without harming them? I have 2 (1 each) adjustable temp. switches.....the kind a roof ventilator uses...that I was going to use to bypass the slow setting if it ever really got hot in there set to at least 15 deg. under max operating temp....60C  or about 125 F.

Thanks!   Tim

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   Re: Mikohn Progressive Controllers Displays and other info
« Reply #494 on: May 08, 2006, 06:31:24 PM »   

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One thought is to use a thermo coupler.

I put in 4 fans into my Mame. Probably more airflow and louder than your cessna doing a redline.

I put a thermo coupler inline and they only run when needed. For a while I wasn't sure it was in right so I took a hairdryer to heat it up.
Its only ever kicked in once since and then only for a few min.

The motors are probably nothing special so if you were to get a Fan Control (not just a regular dimmer switch) like you would use for a ceiling fan you can probably slow these down.

 

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   Re: Mikohn Progressive Controllers Displays and other info
« Reply #495 on: May 08, 2006, 07:00:15 PM »   

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Thanks!  I will pick up some tomorrow.  The 1 X 3 does not really get too hot....but the 2 X 3 when it is carring a heavy amount of graphics............well...this room will not need a heater come winter. Thanks again ....Tim

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   Re: Mikohn Progressive Controllers Displays and other info
« Reply #496 on: May 08, 2006, 07:56:24 PM »   

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Hey Tim,
Connect the fans in series. I am bench testing a couple muffin fans right now. Thought I better double-check before suggesting this to you.
The current decreased (a good thang); not increase as most AC motors behave with reduced voltage.

We usually blow our fans into the cabinet and filter the outside air. This creates a higher static pressure which enhances heat dissipation. However with these in series, the speed is so reduced (but adequate), I would use them in a cross-flow arrangement.

Cool and quite . . . . .
'da Monster

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   Re: Mikohn Progressive Controllers Displays and other info
« Reply #497 on: May 08, 2006, 11:11:09 PM »   

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I have been way to busy with work stuff that I have not been able to play!!!           

Tim,

I will be meeting with Joey next week and I will give him a copy of the CD so that he can load it onto the download database... that way Jay or others does not have to sit and upload forever...  just wanted to take a break and give you guys that message! Have fun playing guys!!!

My new toys are getting dusty!         

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   Re: Mikohn Progressive Controllers Displays and other info
« Reply #499 on: May 09, 2006, 03:45:28 AM »   

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Quote from: Slotness_Monster on May 08, 2006, 07:56:24 PM
Hey Tim,
Connect the fans in series. I am bench testing a couple muffin fans right now. Thought I better double-check before suggesting this to you.
The current decreased (a good thang); not increase as most AC motors behave with reduced voltage.

We usually blow our fans into the cabinet and filter the outside air. This creates a higher static pressure which enhances heat dissipation. However with these in series, the speed is so reduced (but adequate), I would use them in a cross-flow arrangement.

Cool and quite . . . . .
'da Monster
Thanks..................I only have 1 fan on each unit blowing directly into the cabinet and straight on the meters hottest spot, in-line with all the transistors.......I was planning a filter when I make the grill ends.........so with the fans on different sides of the room I guess the ceiling fan speed control is the route to go. Now I wish that I had used DC fans......it would have been as simple as dropping the voltage with a rheostat. The fan controls cost just might justify a change to DC. Or if I could come up with some kind of muffler in the grill ends that would not kill all the CFM.
As far as cross flow.................one in at the end and one out at the other end?
Thanks!   Tim

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cessnac182golf
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   Re: Mikohn Progressive Controllers Displays and other info
« Reply #500 on: May 09, 2006, 03:57:30 AM »   

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Quote from: cessnac182golf on May 08, 2006, 05:23:16 PM
Quote from: cessnac182golf on May 04, 2006, 05:27:21 PM
And the Winner is......................

Well............it's on the way!       I did not have an extra Mikohn power connector..........and I did not have one for my 1st supreme also...........so if your 1 X 3 does not have one (knowing Rich...it probably does)  open up the power supply...all the power from this is 5V DC...This is how Mikohn takes the power from it.......there are 8 terminals..the outer 2 on each side are 5V.....the center 4 are common (ground). They run the 3 panels off of 1,2 and 7....and the board runs off #8. Just discard the Mikohn connector and wire your own.         Tim

PS..............don't forget to use some kind of static protection!

The Supreme defaults to a 1 X 1.......so when you get it...plug in the downloader (plug in the computer first and power up the board....that way it will do a read of the flash and RAM/ROM) and pull up the utilities and hit erase flash. That will give you a 1 x 1 and a Mikohn Gaming demo. That way you will be able to see it work before you get your 1 X 3.   Tim

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   Re: Mikohn Progressive Controllers Displays and other info
« Reply #501 on: May 09, 2006, 06:00:54 AM »   

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Will do Tim.  Did you say that the cable needs to be jumped or not for pins 1 & 5 to program the Supreme.  I presume you are programming it directly and not thru the CON2.

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   Re: Mikohn Progressive Controllers Displays and other info
« Reply #502 on: May 09, 2006, 06:04:37 AM »   

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I just thought of something........is there a 1 X 4 selection on the menu?  I have this spare 1 X 1 that I could add to the 1 X 3 if a 1 X 4 is possible.

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   Re: Mikohn Progressive Controllers Displays and other info
« Reply #503 on: May 09, 2006, 04:49:54 PM »   

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Quote from: cessnac182golf on May 09, 2006, 03:45:28 AM
Quote from: Slotness_Monster on May 08, 2006, 07:56:24 PM
Hey Tim,
Connect the fans in series. I am bench testing a couple muffin fans right now. Thought I better double-check before suggesting this to you.
The current decreased (a good thang); not increase as most AC motors behave with reduced voltage.

We usually blow our fans into the cabinet and filter the outside air. This creates a higher static pressure which enhances heat dissipation. However with these in series, the speed is so reduced (but adequate), I would use them in a cross-flow arrangement.

Cool and quite . . . . .
'da Monster
Thanks..................I only have 1 fan on each unit blowing directly into the cabinet and straight on the meters hottest spot, in-line with all the transistors.......I was planning a filter when I make the grill ends.........so with the fans on different sides of the room I guess the ceiling fan speed control is the route to go. Now I wish that I had used DC fans......it would have been as simple as dropping the voltage with a rheostat. The fan controls cost just might justify a change to DC. Or if I could come up with some kind of muffler in the grill ends that would not kill all the CFM.
As far as cross flow.................one in at the end and one out at the other end?
Thanks!   Tim

Tim,
Filter:
That is your call and you are the best judge. If the gameroom is kept clean, you will find a years worth of dust is no comparison to a months worth of casino dust. However, a blocked filter is worst than no filter at all.

Sound:
Here is another thought. Anytime you create two right-angles for the airflow, you will dampen the directional sound of the fan blade.
I.E. Mount the fan deeper inside the cabinet and create a section of partitions or ducts to block the sound path yet keep the airflow path uninhibited.
And if more deadening is needed. glue some foam on the partition sides.

Crossflow:
Yes, fan on one side of cabinet blowing air in, opposite side fan pulling air out. Really improves the air changeover rate. Keep in mind the outlet fan will see all the heat and probably retire the soonest.

Keep it cool,
'da Monster

P.S. The two 4" 120VAC muffin fans connected in series are still working problem-free. No motor heat and current draw never changed(increased).
 
« Last Edit: May 09, 2006, 04:52:48 PM by Slotness_Monster » 
 

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   Re: Mikohn Progressive Controllers Displays and other info
« Reply #504 on: May 09, 2006, 06:25:42 PM »   

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Quote from: idesign on May 09, 2006, 06:04:37 AM
I just thought of something........is there a 1 X 4 selection on the menu?  I have this spare 1 X 1 that I could add to the 1 X 3 if a 1 X 4 is possible.

There are no 1 X 4 programs ....only 1 X 2, 1 X 3, 2 x 3 etc on the disc.....although you could use it in the secondary position, but I think that once you set the size on the primary it sets both outputs to the same size as it will only read one PDF file for this at a time. The Supreme will drive 2 meters just like the CHAMII will drive 2....primary on  the outside port and secondary on the inside port.
As far as the pins 1 and 5 go....the supreme and the CON2 take these as instructions to do different things........The Con2 uses this to tell it that it is receiving info off the serial port: No 1 and 5 and it reads the optical ports only.
On the supreme it will not take any programming unless the pin 5 and 1 are grounded....and it cuts off ALL outside communication until pin 1 and 5 are not connected...............Which means that you CAN NOT wire these on the supreme board or CON2....they must be on the cable itself. Plug in the cable to the supreme and you will get a C1 telling you that it has lost the signal from the CON2....unplug the cable and it is back to normal operation. You program all the graphic stuff through the supreme....not the CON2...because it does not get the 1 and 5 pin ground and will not take any programming. You can load the JACK files but these go to RAM along with any jackpot program and as soon as you power down.....you loose all everything..............BUT IT HOLDS THESE FILES IN ROM UNTIL THE CON 2 STARTS UP as part of the Watchdog system......but it still will not read them! The CON2 has some type of capacitor powering the memory and will hold info for about 10 days if you leave it on for a couple of hours to charge first. All the JACK stuff must go through the CON2 to stay in the memory...as the supreme will not send this info back to the con2. And the supreme set up MUST BE SAVE TO RAM when you  run and program these or they will not work! The Supreme manual says nothing of this and it took me probably 100 try's until I decided to switch the SAVE TO from FLASH to RAM....and then it was    ! After all I had been doing trying to get the CHAMII+ to display the 2 min message this was like winning the top progressive!
If you do program the JACK or jackpot info into the supreme........be sure to do an erase flash before you try it with the CON2 or you will not get anything but a 4.01 message which means that it has conflicting info and goes into a type of coma until you clear EVERYTHING! I took 3 days of trying anything and everything until I figured out how to fix this.....and now I know that it did this because of the WATCHDOG system  . The Supreme would only run with pin 1 and 5 grounded.....so once it receives the word that the watchdog has been activated it stores it also.  Which means that there are a lot of things that these boards have that they simply do not tell you about. Who would ever think that a CON2 has it's own police service? And there is an LED for this also!
Back to the supreme.............be sure to block the optical ports. With no pin 1 and 5 grounded it keeps looking to see if you are sending optical info. I have a neon sign in the room..........and the supreme optical port can read it...............and believe me it does not speak MIKOHN! !   Later....Tim
 

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   Re: Mikohn Progressive Controllers Displays and other info
« Reply #505 on: May 09, 2006, 06:53:38 PM »   

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Quote from: Slotness_Monster on May 09, 2006, 04:49:54 PM
Quote from: cessnac182golf on May 09, 2006, 03:45:28 AM
Quote from: Slotness_Monster on May 08, 2006, 07:56:24 PM
Hey Tim,
Connect the fans in series. I am bench testing a couple muffin fans right now. Thought I better double-check before suggesting this to you.
The current decreased (a good thang); not increase as most AC motors behave with reduced voltage.

We usually blow our fans into the cabinet and filter the outside air. This creates a higher static pressure which enhances heat dissipation. However with these in series, the speed is so reduced (but adequate), I would use them in a cross-flow arrangement.

Cool and quite . . . . .
'da Monster
Thanks..................I only have 1 fan on each unit blowing directly into the cabinet and straight on the meters hottest spot, in-line with all the transistors.......I was planning a filter when I make the grill ends.........so with the fans on different sides of the room I guess the ceiling fan speed control is the route to go. Now I wish that I had used DC fans......it would have been as simple as dropping the voltage with a rheostat. The fan controls cost just might justify a change to DC. Or if I could come up with some kind of muffler in the grill ends that would not kill all the CFM.
As far as cross flow.................one in at the end and one out at the other end?
Thanks!   Tim

Tim,
Filter:
That is your call and you are the best judge. If the gameroom is kept clean, you will find a years worth of dust is no comparison to a months worth of casino dust. However, a blocked filter is worst than no filter at all.

Sound:
Here is another thought. Anytime you create two right-angles for the airflow, you will dampen the directional sound of the fan blade.
I.E. Mount the fan deeper inside the cabinet and create a section of partitions or ducts to block the sound path yet keep the airflow path uninhibited.
And if more deadening is needed. glue some foam on the partition sides.

Crossflow:
Yes, fan on one side of cabinet blowing air in, opposite side fan pulling air out. Really improves the air changeover rate. Keep in mind the outlet fan will see all the heat and probably retire the soonest.

Keep it cool,
'da Monster

P.S. The two 4" 120VAC muffin fans connected in series are still working problem-free. No motor heat and current draw never changed(increased).

Thanks!   I picked up a couple of ceiling fan control switches today and on the low setting it maybe takes it down about 10 rpm........so no difference in the sound..........so I figured..........what about 2 in-line?.............so I thought it was worth a try and this reduced the RPM's about a total of 25%....which still moves plenty of air but is much nicer on the ear. So I figured that I might as well open up one of these fan controls to see what kind of resistance that they have. They have 2  ballast type AC resistors... a 9.0K and a 4.7K. So I though about opening up the 2nd fan control and wiring another resistor in-line on the first. Well 2- 9's and one 4.75 work great...........and slightly increases the fan speed from what I was getting using 2 fan switches. And the test is going fine and...strangely there is no heat comming off the ballast resistors...probably because the fan uses so few amps........so I think I will pick up another switch tomorrow and gut it also. I am going to solder these on a small PC board.
I generate enough dust in my woodshop that I always manage to bring some in with me....no matter how well I blow off...and it shows! So I must figure on using some kind of replaceable filter system. I like the right angle muffler system............I guess it would have to be on the input side and the cabinet out side also?

Thanks!   Tim
 
 

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   Re: Mikohn Progressive Controllers Displays and other info
« Reply #506 on: May 10, 2006, 01:49:30 AM »   

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Quote from: Slotness_Monster on May 08, 2006, 07:56:24 PM
Hey Tim,
Connect the fans in series. I am bench testing a couple muffin fans right now. Thought I better double-check before suggesting this to you.
The current decreased (a good thang); not increase as most AC motors behave with reduced voltage.

We usually blow our fans into the cabinet and filter the outside air. This creates a higher static pressure which enhances heat dissipation. However with these in series, the speed is so reduced (but adequate), I would use them in a cross-flow arrangement.

Cool and quite . . . . .
'da Monster
Thanks..................I only have 1 fan on each unit blowing directly into the cabinet and straight on the meters hottest spot, in-line with all the transistors.......I was planning a filter when I make the grill ends.........so with the fans on different sides of the room I guess the ceiling fan speed control is the route to go. Now I wish that I had used DC fans......it would have been as simple as dropping the voltage with a rheostat. The fan controls cost just might justify a change to DC. Or if I could come up with some kind of muffler in the grill ends that would not kill all the CFM.
As far as cross flow.................one in at the end and one out at the other end?
Thanks!   Tim




Tim,

With our high end Industrial Rackmount boxes that we build, we use DC fans that are filtered with washable filters. We have the airflow designed to flow in through filtered inlets, and then in flows accross the cards and HOT single board computer, and then in goes out the back through vent holes in our industrial chassis. Do you want me to look around and see if we have any spares of these washable filters (aprox 4" by 7.5") laying around? I am not sure if we have spares right now, but I can try to get some extras on my next shipment. On the bigger boxes we have intake fans on the front, and exhaust fans on the rear so that there is a flow of air over the components. I would suggest that you do this as we always see that you need the hotter air to exhaust, otherwise you may just be blowing hot air around. OK that is enough of my hot air!

Mark
 

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   Re: Mikohn Progressive Controllers Displays and other info
« Reply #507 on: May 10, 2006, 04:15:24 AM »   

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Thanks! I only need a couple.....I was thinking of just cutting up some std AC filters and designing the grill ends around easy replacement were I would not dump all the accumulated dust in the meter every time I pulled the filter. The high speed bypass temp switch should be a good filter reminder...as it probably will never kick in unless there was low air flow. Were do you get your filters?    Thanks everybody!...........Off to the Salt Mine!    Tim
BTW...Here is the pot of gold at the end of the rainbow


 

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   Re: Mikohn Progressive Controllers Displays and other info
« Reply #508 on: May 10, 2006, 09:20:38 AM »   

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Those 4" 115  VAC fans can also be purchase with a lower CFM.  The lower the CFM, the quieter they are.  The low output ones are virtually silent compared to the high output ones.  IF you have a local Electronics store which sells surplus fans, they should allow you to rummage through all their fans and find the ones that best suit your needs.  They usually sell for $9.95 to $14.95 used and still have plenty of life left.

Slowing them down by installing series resistors is not the best route to take since the resistors are going to produce heat too.  The same thing you are trying to reduce in the enclosure.

The two fans in series is actually a great way to go as long as both fans are the same exact model.  If they are not, their amp draw will not match and one will probably spin fast and the other, hardly at all.

 

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   Re: Mikohn Progressive Controllers Displays and other info
« Reply #509 on: May 10, 2006, 10:03:03 AM »   

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Tim,
If you have a Graingers nearby.

Guards/Filter Housing:
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/itemDetailsRender.shtml?ItemId=1611728592

Low Cost . . . . . Made in Mexico

Attractive, easy filter replacement. OK to use as a vent. We leave the filter out on the cabinet exhaust side.

(5)Replacement filters:
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/itemDetailsRender.shtml?ItemId=1611776766

Again . . . . Low Cost, Hecho de Mehico

Our Graingers accepts cash, but you will pay this listed price.

Take a fan with you. Most are the standard 4" (really 4-1/8"), but there are some cheap oddballs out there.

Later,
Mr. Cool

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   Re: Mikohn Progressive Controllers Displays and other info
« Reply #510 on: May 10, 2006, 03:22:04 PM »   

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Thanks........Graingers never crossed my mind.  I buy from one regularly for parts for my plant and we have one located right here in Ft Worth, about 10 miles north of my plant. I use there 4" thick catalog as a paperweight on my desk!
Thanks again!   Tim

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   Re: Mikohn CON2 and CHAMII+ Communications
« Reply #512 on: May 14, 2006, 07:59:48 AM »   

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I have been trying to make the CON2I and CHAMII+ communicate in LINKER mode for the last few days but no matter what I set the CHAMII+ to, I can not set the jackpot amount using PSP software.  All I get is $0.00 on the display alternating with a C1 error message.  However, I have had no problem with a CHAMII, they communicate just fine without errors.   Every CHAMII+ I have has a label on it indicating "STAND ALONE" and the label on the firmware indicates STA / VX.XX suggesting that these boards are STAND ALONE only.  The odd thing about it is the settings suggest that it can be used in LINKER or LINKED COMBO configuration.  The manual suggets that the CHAMII+ can be used in all 3 confirguations although on Page 1 it's a little vague about it referring to available various kits for linked progressive systems.

Does anyone know the settings to have the CHAMII+ and the CON2I to commuicate?   I'm thinking that the CHAMII+ firmware has to be changed to solve this problem but I haven't seen any CHAMII+ boards with labels on them other than "STAND ALONE"

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   Re: Mikohn Progressive Controllers Displays and other info
« Reply #513 on: May 14, 2006, 08:40:48 AM »   

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Jeff,

Similar question asked on slot techs......not sure if this will help or not.

This is my setup
Address settings
255
64
off
1
display settings
no
1
SA0
5
10
ODMTR81
60
SYST SETTINGS
OFF
OFF
YES
YES
NONE
 

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   Re: Mikohn Progressive Controllers Displays and other info
« Reply #514 on: May 14, 2006, 08:50:12 AM »   

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Thanks Jay I'll give it a try.  Did they happen to indicate whcih version of the firmware they were using?

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   Re: Mikohn Progressive Controllers Displays and other info
« Reply #515 on: May 14, 2006, 12:14:16 PM »   

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Jay, I don't think this is for a CHAMII+ since one of the ADDRESS settings would have to be either CON2 or CASLINK unless this is for some earlier version of the firmware that I don't have.

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   Re: Mikohn Progressive Controllers Displays and other info
« Reply #518 on: May 14, 2006, 06:40:32 PM »   

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When I set it to Stand Alone the jackpot in memory came up on the display so I assume it will work as Stand Alone also.
 
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If it aint broke why mess with it!!!!
 
 
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   Re: Mikohn Progressive Controllers Displays and other info
« Reply #517 on: May 14, 2006, 06:21:28 PM »   

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Does it still work standalone ??
 
 

[Thor777]

cessnac182golf
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   Re: Mikohn Progressive Controllers Displays and other info
« Reply #519 on: May 14, 2006, 08:24:56 PM »   

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Quote from: idesign on May 14, 2006, 12:55:30 PM
I found a CHAMII+ board with version 1.53 of the firmware and the CHAMII+ now works with the CON2.  I was using CHAMII+ version 2.07 of the firmware which didn't communicate.  I'm thinking that the firmware in the CON2 is version 4.01 and it may not be compatible with CHAMII+ version 2.07.  Does anyone know what the latest version of the firmware is for the CON2?
Hey Jeff.......... Wonder how high the firmware number goes before it will not work with the 4.01? I have some 1.66 versions. through 2.05......as I myself and the Captain all have 4.01 CON2 chips also. Oh...forgot to ask...did you pull the jumper for the watchdog on the CON2?   Or maybe we need to burn a bunch of lower chips for the CHAMII+'s? I had only tried it on one unit figuring that if it did not work on it...........well.............needless to say you have that covered........good work!      Tim

PS..............any idea when your 1 x 3 is getting there?